Osteria Nights by Ra-Ft – Arcoris, Mont Kiara
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Rich Callahan
As a writer for the Yum List, I love sampling delicious food, but I also love meeting the people behind it. They are the ones who pour their passion, creativity, talent, and hard work into creating the fantastic dishes we enjoy. Some work in the kitchen, some work in the front-of-house, and others behind the scenes, but they all share a common vision of bringing happiness to their guests. I appreciate their kindness and generosity in sharing their time with me, especially in such a demanding and busy industry. Meeting them is always a pleasure, and the Ra-Ft team exemplified this in spades. Their genuine passion and hospitality solidified their place among the industry stars.
Andrea Rossi and Filippo Tomelleri are hard-working Italian entrepreneurs behind several familiar brands. They started with Ra-Ft Cafe in KLCC seven years ago, and due to its success, they opened two more branches in Mont Kiara and Sierramas, Sungai Buloh. I’ve been a loyal customer of the KLCC outlet for many years. It’s one of my go-to places for a tasty brunch and to pick up a bag of freshly roasted coffee, which now comes from their coffee roasting business below their Sierramas cafe.
Two years ago, they launched Fratelli’s Pastificio, a fresh pasta brand, at Tiffin in the Yard. During the pandemic, they also created Ghost Pizza, a delivery service that brought fresh pizza to our homes when dining out was impossible. Osteria Nights in Mont Kiara, which showcases the best of their previous offerings, can perhaps be viewed as a ‘greatest hits – so far’ collection. I say so far, as they always seem to have more ideas in store.
So what exactly is an ‘osteria’? Today, it describes an Italian restaurant that serves food and wine in a casual and informal setting. Originally in Italy, osterias were mostly taverns that served wine and offered simple meals and snacks to go alongside. While the menus may have evolved today, the emphasis remains on casual dining using fresh ingredients prepared with care.
Osteria Nights by Ra-Ft is located in their Mont Kiara establishment. The Arcoris Plaza even feels a little European, surrounded by glitzy high rises; the cream marble tiled walkways and plaza contrast with the black anodised window and door frames with a charming outdoor seating area under a glass canopy and ceiling fans that keep the temperature cool and pleasant. Inside are echoes of the original KLCC cafe, with similar design cues of warm exposed brickwork, grey plaster walls, dark wood chairs and tables, and vibrant red leather sofas that add a pop of colour.
Filippo told us that whilst Ra-Ft Mont Kiara is well known for its great food over the morning, lunchtime and afternoon, they were keen to continue serving the local community into the evening, this time bringing people together to share ‘the love of good food and great drinks with friends and family, the authentic Italian way’.
We dropped in late afternoon, so we only got part of the evening experience when there would be candles on the tables and softer lighting. The staff who had worked the morning and afternoon shifts were just heading home for the day as Filippo seated us, and they said goodbye to him, having a few jokes, giggling and singing as they hurried away. I was glad to see the staff so cheerful and friendly, and I felt it was a good indicator of what was an excellent experience for us and, I’m sure, for all their customers.
Osteria Nights at Ra-Ft Mont Kiara
Cocktails
We started with a couple of cocktails from the menu. We chose the Gin & Tonic (RM 34), served by the glass, or you can have a pitcher (RM 90) to share with friends. Served in a stemmed bowl glass over ice and garnished with a sprig of rosemary, with blueberries bobbing just beneath the surface, it was the most refreshing drink to quench our thirst.
Next, we sampled a Classic Mojito, the refreshing citrussy drink that originated in Cuba. Made from rum, sugar syrup, lime juice and soda water, served over ice with a sprig of fresh mint, Monica remarked that it was well-balanced and not overly sweet, which can sometimes be the case in other establishments. Again, this can be served by the glass (RM 38) or pitcher for sharing (RM 95).
Wines
A refreshingly concise list of wines is available at Osteria Nights at Ra-Ft Mont Kiara, consisting of four whites, five reds, a rosé, and a Prosecco. None of these will break the bank, and are perfect for casual dining. I had a glass of the Placido Pino Grigio 2022, a white wine from Veneto, Italy. It is fresh and fruity, with citrus and pear notes; it can be enjoyed independently; however, it is perfect paired with appetisers, seafood and salads. It’s available by the glass (RM 30) or bottle (RM120).
Monica opted for the Chianti Classico DOCG Placido 2021, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo Nero grapes. It had a dark ruby-red colour, was dry on the palate and was well-balanced. It’s also available by the glass (RM 30) or bottle (RM120). This wine had notes of blackcurrant and blackberries and paired very well with the following meat and pasta dishes.
We selected the Cheese Board from the small plates menu to accompany our wine. The Cheese Board comes in two sizes, enough for two people (RM 34) and four (RM 65). Monica remarked that it was one of the better cheese boards she had seen recently, very attractively arranged and presented along with black grapes, a selection of olives, walnuts, dried apricots, premium olive oil, jam and a basket of toasted sourdough bread. Of the cheeses, the creamy Riccotta was house-made, coated in crushed pecans and chopped herbs. The cubed Feta was tangy and salty. Although I loved the generous portion of Gorgonzola, my favourite was the cubes of Grana Padano. Like Parmigiano Reggiano, this unpasteurised cheese is milder in flavour, maturing for less time than Parmesan but still for a minimum of nine months.
Beers
As well as Italian beers I was reasonably familiar with, Filippo steered me towards the selection of Japanese craft beer. There are four on the menu, and I opted for the Hitachino Dai Dai Ale; all the Japanese beers are available as a single bottle (RM 34), or you can order a bucket of five bottles (RM 150). The Hitachino Dai Dai Ale from the Kiuchi Brewery was a light amber shade, almost orange in the late afternoon sun, which matched this IPA’s slight orange peel smell and citrusy flavours.
Osteria Nights Food Menu
From the sides menu, we selected Truffle French Fries with Truffle Dip (RM 16). They were piping hot and crisp, served lightly dusted in salt and dried herbs in a basket alongside a decadent truffle dip. These were a big hit with our photographer, Rich.
Just as our main courses arrived, Filippo was greeted warmly by a family walking home from one of the nearby international schools, clearly frequent customers. Filippo asked how the school had been that day, told us that the two girls were his honourary mascots, and offered a few cubes of the tasty cheese we hadn’t managed to finish. Their mother gave them the go-ahead, and they giggled as they excitedly accepted the unexpected snack.
Mains
Although in KL you are more likely to find variations of Neopolitan pizza, when it started two years ago, Ghost Pizza championed Roman-style pizza crusts, which they serve at Osteria Nights. The two styles have many differences, such as the dough mix, proofing times, cooking times, and toppings. Roman-style pizza crusts are thin and airy thanks to olive oil, flour, water, yeast and salt. The olive oil also makes them crunchy and flavourful, setting them apart from Neopolitan crusts. This crunch even has a unique name in Italian: ‘scrocchiarella’.
Unlike their delivery-only Ghost Pizza business, Osteria Nights at Ra-Ft Mont Kiara has a broader range of toppings, including pork and ham. Filippo recommended his favourite, Prosciutto & Arugula (RM 55). It arrived hot, fresh and crisp from the oven, the imported buffalo mozzarella creamy and forming strings. Their in-house tomato sauce is made from imported Italian tomatoes, which adds to the authenticity of the pizza, and the parma ham is especially tasty thanks to its 24-month ageing. Although perfect for sharing, we were all fighting over the last slice.
Our first pasta dish, a meat-free choice, was Ravioli Truffle Mushrooms (RM30). These delicate little fresh pasta pillows are made by hand; the pasta is thin and soft, enveloping a generous amount of house-made ricotta cheese and shaved truffle. The butter and sage sauce add a touch of freshness and brightness to the dish, enhancing the savoury and fragrant notes of the mushrooms. This is a perfect dish for vegetarians or if you are trying to reduce your meat intake.
If you’re looking for a bit of drama on your plate, I can recommend the Salmon Rosa (RM 35). Strands of freshly made black squid ink fettuccine tossed in a creamy pink sauce are interwoven with contrasting flakes of fresh Norwegian Salmon. This dish looks every bit as good as it tastes.
My favourite of the pasta dishes was the Traditional Guanciale Carbonara (RM 38). A carbonara sauce is like one of those litmus paper tests for me when it comes to Italian restaurants. If they can’t master this dish, then it is unlikely that anything they serve will be authentic or even good. Sadly, it’s a dish often degraded by the addition of cream in many establishments, an ingredient that simply does not belong. At Osteria Nights at Ra-Ft Mont Kiara, it’s prepared with guanciale rather than bacon. Guanciale is a rich, fatty piece of meat from a pig’s cheek. I enjoyed how the guanciale permeated each bite and gave the sauce an umami richness and a salty, velvety backbone.
For our final main course dish, Filippo and Andrea had a real treat in store for us: Wagyu Beef Tagliata Steak (RM135). This mouthwatering steak dish of tender and juicy Wagyu beef is perfectly grilled. Tagliata, which means “cut” in Italian, is a boneless steak served in thin slices drizzled with olive oil, served with a freshly made chimichurri sauce, a small jug of beef jus, a whole roasted garlic bulb and salt. Monica said the steak was terrific, but the chimichurri sauce added an extra kick. I couldn’t agree more. I loved the tangy and spicy flavour of this green sauce, made with parsley, oregano, shallots, garlic, vinegar and chilli.
Desserts Menu
Andrea and Filippo insisted that we could only leave after trying their Gelato, which is served in a crisp waffle cup, either one scoop (RM 14) or two scoops (RM 25). We sampled the mango flavour, and despite eating incredibly well, nothing beats a cold and delicious Italian mango gelato on a hot day. The gelato is silky and decadent, with a natural mango flavour that is enhanced by adding lime juice and sugar. The gelato is served in a crisp waffle cup with a satisfying crunch and a subtle vanilla flavour. The saffron strands on top of the gelato add a dash of sophistication and flair and a delicate floral and nutty flavour.
Osteria Nights at Ra-Ft Mont Kiara Review
I find myself feeling somewhat jealous of the residents in Mont Kiara who are able to stroll from their apartments in the evening as the sun is setting. They can pass through the almost European Acoris plaza and head towards Osteria Nights, where candles flicker and friendly faces greet them. Andrea, Fillipo and their team have already conquered the day with their delicious breakfast, lunch and brunch offerings. Now, they are ready to share their cozy Italian night vibes with the neighbourhood. Whether it’s a pizza for the family, a candlelit dinner for two, or a wine and small plates night with friends, Osteria Nights has something for everyone. We genuinely lost track of the time while we were there. There is an expression that time flies when you’re having fun, and we definitely did.
Reasons to visit Osteria Nights by Ra-Ft Mont Kiara: their Roman-style pizzas are lovely and crisp, and as we found ourselves, you would be fighting over the last slice. I still dream of their Guanciale Carbonara, a heavenly dish of homemade fettuccine, creamy sauce, and savoury guanciale. Their cocktail pitchers are ideal for sharing with friends after work, so gather a few and call in. All the prices listed here are net. There is no ‘plus plus’ on their menu, so what you see is the price you pay, with no surprises when the bill comes. Vegetarian & gluten-free choices. Non-halal.
Osteria Nights by Ra-Ft Mont Kiara
Unit G-16 & G-17, Ground Floor Arcoris Plaza
Jalan Kiara, Mont Kiara 50450, Malaysia
www.ra-aft.com/osteria-nights
[email protected]
+6 03 6412 2127
Osteria Nights by Ra-aft Opening Hours
Wednesday to Sunday: 6 pm – 11 pm
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