Asador V – Fire-infused Adventure, Kuala Lumpur
Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Han Sen Hau
There are many beautiful restaurants in KL.
There aren’t many that stop you in your tracks when you enter.
Asador V falls — or, elegantly descends — into the second category.
Sitting pretty on the 4th floor of Menara Hap Seng 3 in KL’s city centre, Asador V is from the experienced team behind the 2023 and 2024 Michelin Guide-recognised Vantador, the dry-aged steak boutique.
And I wouldn’t be surprised to see their new venture claiming a few esteemed accolades of its own in the future.
It’s a stunning, glamorous two-storey space with a custom-built mezzanine floor and a certain sophistication that wouldn’t look out of place in an upscale Manhattan establishment. A stylish marble-topped bar commands the middle of the restaurant, where gigantic shelves soar and stretch and curve all the way up to the high ceiling.
Floor-to-ceiling windows let in lots of natural light, showing off the tasteful black-and-gold-and-bronze finishings. However, the place still feels intimate and cosy even in the mid-afternoon. Outside, there’s a wrap-around balcony deck complete with bamboo greenery for a classy al fresco dining area. It’s known as the “cigar lounge” because it’s the ideal spot to puff away on one (if so inclined) and watch the city centre go by. I imagine it’s a great place to be at night.
A lot of careful thought and planning has gone into the look and feel of this place, and it really shows, right down (or up) to the custom-made light fixtures and three glittering chandeliers. Riedel wine glasses and elegant cutlery enhance the tables. It’s a little vintage, a little contemporary, and even a little Italian — check out the Roman columns adorning one corner, and you’ll see what I mean.
In fact, those columns support the private room above them, called — wait for it — Roman, available with a minimum spend of RM4000 for 12 pax. Other private rooms are available upstairs (or outside) for RM2500/8 pax., too. Downstairs, the seating is versatile, from private booth seating to plush blue sofas between the beautiful bar and the open kitchen and tables by the window with a great view.
Asador V Kuala Lumpur
And, of course, there’s serious gastronomy behind the glamour. Swiss-trained Chef Daric Liu, previously Chef de Cuisine at Vantador and now overseeing the entire group’s culinary operations, is in charge of the kitchen at Asador V. So we’re in excellent and very experienced hands. Chef Jackie Gee provides able support on the asado fire grill — an Argentine slow-roasting set-up renowned for cooking steaks. Here, the menu has been expanded to include more seafood and vegetables on the grill, allowing Chef Daric to really have some fun and show off his 18 years of fine dining experience at the same time.
We pick a comfortable sofa in the middle of the action and settle down to let the show begin.
Fire-inspired Menu
Starters & Salads
To start, delicious house-baked bread: a parmesan rosemary brioche with garlic butter. Warm from the oven and thoughtfully plated — it certainly sets the tone.
The Salmon Crudo (RM80) is a generous piece of fresh Ora King Salmon, pickle plum, smoked sour cream and mandarin orange dressing to make things really interesting. The sweetness, tang and acidity profiles from the sides bring out the richness of the premium salmon cut.
The Burnt Leek and Mussels (RM78) shows off that seafood-and-veggies-on-the-grill approach, and we heartily approve. Australian leeks are charred to the perfect smoky-and-soft texture and served with fresh and tasty Spanish mussels and a smoked clam veloute. Gremolata and grated fresh truffle complete the plate.
You know it’s a proper paella when it needs to be aggressively scraped off the bottom of the pan, and the Lobster Paella (RM220) is indeed deserving of its name. Half a Canadian lobster is served on arborio rice, cooked in lobster stock and white wine, seasoned with saffron and rounded off with confit garlic aioli and chives allium. The rich and flavourful rice contrasts perfectly with the sweet white lobster flesh.
The Bone Marrow (RM138) comes with the option to add charred oysters (RM60/3 pcs), which we do. Chef recommends we scoop out the marrow — baked Rubia Gallega bone marrow, no less — and combine the two, and who are we to disagree? The oysters are a lovely contrast to the fatty, savoury, almost creamy marrow, and the dish is finished with Avruga caviar and fresh truffle – indulgence all around.
Out of sheer curiosity, we have to try the Mixed Salad & Ice Cream (RM38) — and it’s brilliant. Mesclun greens, charred orange, blueberry, pomegranate, walnut ‘candy’ and yuzu vinaigrette combine into a wonderful medley of texture and flavour, tart and crisp and crunchy. You can choose between homemade blue cheese or olive oil ice cream. The olive oil adds a subtle savoury balance to the fruits, and the blue cheese (which isn’t overpowering at all) adds more depth.
Main Courses
We start out with some seafood; first, the Turbot (RM380), an asador-grilled whole turbot served coastal farmhouse-style with sauteéd root vegetables. Hearty, wholesome and delicious.
The Cuttlefish (RM110) presents a more interesting contrast in flavours and textures, with freshly seared and slightly chewy cuttlefish working well with the smooth, creamy, sweet parsnip purée.
And then it’s time for the main event.
The 30-day Dry-aged Porterhouse (RM80/100gm) is so good it almost brings tears to my eyes. It’s irresistibly tender and juicy and cooked to absolute perfection, with a crispy little char at the end of every sumptuous bite. I’m cutting it into tiny pieces so I can make this last as long as I can.
And then the Dry Aged Bone-in Wagyu Ribeye (RM110/100gm) arrives and I’m stunned into silence. All of Chef’s dry-ageing expertise is on full and glorious display, and this is just astonishingly good. It is rich and densely packed with natural flavour, accentuated by the choice of six side sauces, from probably the best chimichurri I’ve ever had to the truffle béarnaise and beef jus—an absolute treat.
We get two sides with our steaks: the Roasted Sunchoke (RM35) and Slow-roasted Peppers (RM35), which are both excellent. The sunchoke is bold, bright and sweet, and the peppers are nicely roasted to bring out a welcome, sweet-smoky contrast.
Oh, and the salt! This isn’t any old table salt — although it’s very old. In fact, it’s ancient salt from the Valle Salado de Añana (the Salty Valley of Añana). This UNESCO world heritage site dates back to Roman times. Salt is still produced there according to the original, sustainable custom, ‘farmed’ via an ingenious system of staggered terraces, still in their original form. There’s authentic, and then there’s authentic. This isn’t just going the extra mile; this is going back in time.
Talking of Spain, the Lamb Churrasco and Couscous (RM380) is premium grilled young Spanish lamb, beautifully cooked and full-flavoured, complemented brilliantly by the herb crust. Pickled mustard and confit garlic round out the profile of this excellent plate.
Dessert
We’re told the desserts are just as good as the mains, which I find hard to believe after those steaks (and everything else, to be fair) — so, of course, we put them to the test.
The Chocolate Berry (RM40) immediately makes a strong base. Whipped ganache, Sacher chocolate, a “berry sphere”, and chocolate cremeux combine beautifully; the sharpness and sweetness from the berries are softened by the smooth, velvety goodness of the premium chocolate in its various textures.
The Dry-aged Burnt Cheesecake (RM45) is so-called because once they’ve finished dry-ageing the steak with this butter, it goes into the cheesecake recipe. The concept alone makes this a contender for my favourite dessert — and then I take one bite, and it’s all but confirmed. I can’t help but swear. Loudly. It’s so good: rich, rewarding, creamy, luxurious, and indulgent. If you’re a fan of cheesecake, this is your new favourite.
The Praline Caramel (RM40) is a clever little dish, ocean-themed to match the seafood on the menu, served on a blue plate complete with a little piece of ‘coral’ wafer. It’s a smooth and decadent recipe of praline mousse, nutty caramel, almond dacquoise, sea salt, and more caramel, with coffee ice cream to complete the picture. Sweet, but not overpowering, and highly recommended as well.
There’s more than a touch of genius about the Pistachio Citrus (RM48). You might not expect pistachio sablé, bergamot ganache, orange segments, pistachio sauce, and a lemon ‘glass’ to work this well together — but it’s a very pleasant surprise. The ganache brings a lovely creaminess to the dish to balance the earthy pistachio and sharp citrus flavours.
The Gianduja Chocolate Bar (RM40) is full of more fascinating contrasts. Gianduja chocolate and a vanilla sablé are topped with gianduja chantilly cream and berry salsa, finished with a beetroot foam. It’s unexpected but not at all unpleasant. Chocolate ice cream rounds things off very nicely.
Cocktail & Wine List
The service is impeccable at Asador V, and we’ve been kept rather well-hydrated since we sat down. We opt for a cocktail from the signature menu and select some wines appropriate for such excellent meat and seafood.
The Malayan Thyme (RM53) is a fresh and sweet concoction of rum, mint leaf, yuzu and white egg, served with aromatic thyme leaf, which we have before the meal and opens things up nicely.
(We’re then treated to an experimental purple beverage that isn’t on the menu at the time of writing, but I can assure you it’s excellent.)
For the red, it’s a bottle of Bodegas Mauro Cosecha (RM460). There’s an interesting story behind this bottle. ‘Mauro’ is named after legendary winemaker Mariano Garcia, who used to work at the most prestigious vineyard in Spain, Vega Sicilia (which you can also find on this menu), before founding his own. This red is bold and intense, with assertive notes of full-flavoured black fruits and elegant hints of spice. It pairs perfectly with the red meat on the menu.
Our white wine is a very agreeable Louis Latour Chablis Premier Cru Montmains (RM470). It’s dry and refreshing chardonnay, with exotic fruits on the nose and minerality on the finish.
Asador V Review
From the culinary skill to the comfortable sofas and all the quality ingredients and considerate service in between, Asador V is just exceptional. You can sense something special about this place from the second you walk in — which becomes reality from the first bite.
There are simply so many “oh, wow” moments throughout the menu, whether the starters, steaks or seriously indulgent desserts. There’s flavour everywhere: rich, decadent, delicious flavour: quality ingredients, excellent cooking, expert preparation. An “Elite Power Lunch” set menu will be launching soon (12 noon-3 pm, Monday to Saturday; 3-course set lunch from RM118), and there are plans to turn this into a late-night lounge spot when the entertainment licence comes through. It certainly looks the part for a classy jazz joint …
Reasons to visit Asador V: some of the best steak in Kuala Lumpur, expertly and uniquely prepared; an exceptional culinary display throughout the menu, creatively combining the finest ingredients with innovative expression; excellent service; premium wine and liquor list; a gorgeous, memorable restaurant in the heart of the city.
Asador V
Unit 3A-1 & 3A-2, 4th Floor, Menara Hap Seng 3
Jalan P. Ramlee, 50250 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
www.asadorv.co @asadorv
*vegetarian options
**air-con and alfresco seating
***several private dining rooms
Asador V Opening Hours
Daily: 12 pm – 3 pm & 6 pm – 12 am
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