N.I.C.E Bistronome – French Italian, Section 17, Petaling Jaya
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Peter Tan
I learned about N.I.C.E. Bistronome, the latest establishment, from the esteemed Chef Andy Choy of the renowned Chateau Dionne KL in Bukit Damansara a few weeks ago when he invited The Yum list to sample its new spring menu. At the time, he seemed remarkably calm for a man two weeks away from launching his latest restaurant, but I was keen to visit once it opened its doors. At the time, he explained that the restaurant’s theme would encompass the French and Italian Rivieras’ cuisines. Beyond their stunning coastlines and luxurious atmosphere, the French and Italian Rivieras share a deep connection through their delectable cuisine. Both regions are havens for seafood lovers, offering fresh catches prepared in a variety of ways. Regional specialities like olive oil, fresh herbs, and vibrant vegetables play a starring role in dishes, reflecting the Mediterranean influence.
But what exactly is a ‘Bistronome’? Bistronomes are a unique type of restaurant that bridges the gap between casual bistros and upscale gastronomic establishments such as Chateau Dionne. They offer a relaxed and informal atmosphere similar to a bistro but with the high-quality cuisine and a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients typically found in fine-dining restaurants.
Their menus are typically concise and curated, featuring a smaller selection of carefully crafted meals. While more expensive than a typical bistro, bistronomes are generally more affordable than gastronomic restaurants, making them more accessible for enjoying high-quality food in a casual setting.
N.I.C.E. Bistronome Section 17
N.I.C.E. Bistronome (pronounced “Nees” like the French city) is easy to find in Petaling Jaya. It’s located right below Doux Doux by Chateau Dionne, another business owned by founder David Lim and partner executive chef Andy Choy. You’ll find it across the street from Seventeen Mall in a row of terraced shophouses. Look for the burnt orange paintwork with eye-catching blue and white vintage floral tiles against terracotta flooring.
Out front, there are comfy velvet-covered drum stools for relaxing with a drink and a snack before heading inside for your meal. Step inside N.I.C.E. Bistronome and prepare to be wowed. The dramatic interior features matte black walls, while the seating boasts plush velvet in burnt orange, mustard yellow, sage green, and emerald green.
For larger groups, rectangular tables along one wall can be joined together. Four circular booths with sleek copper-effect tabletops are also available. Lush tropical plants in tall planters add bursts of greenery, but the real showstopper is the open kitchen.
Chef Andy Choy likes to say it’s not just an open kitchen; it’s practically open-air! A transparent glass roof floods the entire restaurant with natural light, creating a bright and airy atmosphere. Planter boxes on the kitchen counters showcase crisp green lettuce leaves. These beauties are grown hydroponically by a local company called Cultiveat. On the back wall, a playful video takes you on a virtual walking tour of Nice, the French city that inspired the restaurant’s name.
N.I.C.E. Bistronome PJ Menu & Prices
We were quickly served a basket of delightful Focaccia (RM 20). It was light and airy, perfect for dipping. Alongside came two small dishes: one with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar and another with a standout tapenade. This tapenade, made with capers, olives, and anchovies, was fantastic. It surpassed store-bought versions in both flavour and balance, offering a depth of taste without overwhelming saltiness.
We tried both soups on the menu, starting with the Porcini Cappuccino with Brioche and Milk Foam (RM 35). The star of this dish was the porcini mushrooms, which delivered a rich, earthy taste. The milk foam, which we swirled in before digging in, added a delightful creaminess. Chopped chives provided a pop of freshness. The soup came served in a shallow white bowl with a delicate blue floral pattern on the rim, which, like all the other crockery, gave off a charming rustic vibe reminiscent of a country kitchen. Accompanying the soup were adorable little brioche rolls that were cleverly shaped to resemble button mushrooms.
While the Porcini Cappuccino was undeniably delightful, the Soupe De Poisson Market Fish Prawn Rouille (RM 40) was my favourite. This bisque-like soup offered a depth of flavour that genuinely impressed me. Presented in another of the restaurant’s charming, vintage-inspired bowls, the centrepiece was a roasted tomato filled with succulent red snapper. Accompanying the soup were small toasts adorned with garlic mayo and a generous layer of finely grated parmesan cheese.
Fans of burrata will appreciate N.I.C.E. Bistronome’s take on the cheese in the Burrata with Figs and Hazelnut Crumble (RM 32). Here, plump figs surround a generous portion of creamy burrata. Burrata is an Italian fresh cheese with a soft, luxurious centre encased by a thin, firm mozzarella-like shell for those unfamiliar. The rich centre spills onto the plate upon cutting, complemented by a tangy dressing featuring a hazelnut crumble. Fortunately, I still had a little leftover focaccia, ideal for soaking up the remaining sauce.
A few of my friends are always reluctant to try snails when they see them on the menu. Still, if you’ve not tried them before, I’d recommend you do, especially when they are as delicious as the ones served here – Escargot Tomato Duxelle Herb Butter (available in portion sizes of 6, 12, or 18 pieces, priced at RM 36, 68, and 88, respectively). They are a little similar to eating mussels, which also take a little persuasion when served the traditional way in their shells and have a similar texture, although slightly firmer. For your convenience, a small set of special tongs is provided to secure the snail shell while you extract the meat with a tiny fork. Chef Andy Choy’s interpretation features a touch less garlic than traditional methods, favouring the inclusion of tomato, which imparts a more delicate flavour.
The eponymous Niçoise Salad was a presence I fully expected to find on the menu, and N.I.C.E. Bistronome did not disappoint. The Salade Niçoise (RM 48) was presented on another of those beautiful vintage plates. Crisp green beans and firm, waxy potatoes shared the space with flaked tuna. Slivers of plump, briny anchovies added a delightful acidic counterpoint to the richness. Sun-ripened tomatoes and a generous portion of those incredibly fresh hydroponic lettuce leaves (still practically growing, having just been plucked from their containers on the kitchen counter!) rounded out the composition. The pièce de résistance? A delightfully creamy anchovy sauce served in a small jug for drizzling at your leisure. It’s big enough to share, but I would happily eat this as a main course weekday lunch.
N.I.C.E. Bistronome Wine List
The restaurant was still very new during our visit, having only been open for twelve days. A printed wine list was yet available, and the staff was still finalising their selection. Thankfully, the friendly team offered expert advice on pairings for our chosen dishes. We opted for a bottle of S. Osvaldo Chardonnay Venezia (RM 150), also available by the glass (RM 28). This white wine hails from the Veneto region in northern Italy and pairs beautifully with shellfish, pasta, and lean fish.
French Italian Mains
The house-made pasta selection offers three varieties to pair with different sauces. We opted for the Chitarra Pasta with Tiger Prawn and Crustacean Sauce (RM 62). Chitarra, similar to spaghetti, is made by rolling out fresh egg pasta and draping it over a unique wooden frame resembling a giant egg slicer or guitar strings (hence the name, which translates to “guitar” in Italian). The pasta is pressed through the frame’s metal wires, forming delicate ribbons. Whilst the succulent tiger prawns might seem like the star, for me, the combination of the perfectly cooked pasta and the flavourful crustacean sauce stole the spotlight.
Pasta enthusiasts seeking a lighter option without compromising flavour should consider the N.I.C.E. Tortellini (RM 50). This dish features delicate, house-made tortellini filled with a flavourful chicken mousse. The tortellini are bathed in a caper, shallot, anchovy, and olive oil sauce, adding a salty complexity. Crispy chicken skin disks and croutons provide a delightful textural contrast, offering a satisfying crunch alongside the soft pasta.
N.I.C.E Bistronome offers a unique interpretation of the traditional Saltimbocca (RM 60). While the classic dish typically features veal cutlets, Chef Andy Choy opts for a lighter protein – a chicken roulade. This chicken thigh roulade is then wrapped in duck prosciutto, a flavorful substitute for the traditional cured ham. The saltimbocca is presented atop a bed of creamy mashed potato and finished with a rich, glossy sauce and basil oil. Accompanying the dish are crisp-fried sage leaves, adding an earthy dimension.
The Braised Beef Cheek with Mozzarella and Balsamic Red Wine Jus (RM 88) is a must-try for meat lovers. Beef cheeks, as the name suggests, originate from the facial cheek muscles of cattle. Being a well-exercised muscle, this cut is naturally tough, requiring slow and meticulous cooking to achieve optimal results. Undercooked beef cheeks can result in a chewy, unpleasant texture due to incompletely rendered connective tissue. Fortunately, here they were prepared to melt-in-your-mouth perfection. The richness of the beef was countered by the tanginess of a balsamic vinegar reduction, creating a delightful balance of flavours. Deep-fried mozzarella cubes and small carrot spheres added a welcome textural element, offering a lovely crunch alongside the tender meat.
The Sole Meuniere with Lemon Caper Potato Beurre Blanc (RM 168), whilst one of the more expensive dishes on the menu, is made for sharing. Sole is one of the tastiest but costly flatfish from the sea, so it demands careful preparation and respect. (Interestingly, like other flatfish, Soles begin life as regular fish with eyes on opposite sides. As they grow, one eye migrates to the other side, transforming them into flatfish that live on the bottom of the sea floor). Chef Andy shows off his sauce-making skills with an excellent Beurre Blanc and a dusting of capers and chives, which all this fish requires.
Dessert Menu & Prices
Whilst I’m not known for having a sweet tooth, the cannoli selection at N.I.C.E Bistronome piqued my interest, Cannoli (RM 18). Offered in two flavours – dark chocolate and mandarin orange – they presented a tempting dilemma. The dark chocolate cannoli boasted an intense chocolatey richness, while the mandarin orange surprised with a burst of bright citrus. Fortunately, the cannoli come as a pair, one of each flavour, allowing you to experience both and decide your favourite.
If you love premium Italian ice cream, you must try the Pistachio Gelato (RM 15). This vibrant pastel green dessert will transport you straight to the heart of a pistachio grove. The dominant flavour is nutty sweetness, perfectly balanced by a subtle hint of saltiness that cuts through the richness.
To conclude our delightful meal, we shared a slice of the Tiramisu “Dello Chef” (RM 30). This classic Italian dessert features ladyfingers soaked in coffee, layered with a rich mascarpone cream made with eggs and sugar. Our spoons made quick work of this delightful creation, leaving the dish spotless.
N.I.C.E Bistronome Review
Despite opening just twelve days before our visit, N.I.C.E Bistronome PJ impressed with its food and service. The quality was exceptional, especially considering the restaurant’s newness. The bustling atmosphere added to the experience, and every table was occupied during the Sunday lunch service. Reservations are highly recommended, especially for weekends.
Not surprisingly, N.I.C.E Bistronome attracts patrons familiar with Chef Andy Choy’s other establishments, Chateau Dionne and Doux Doux. While the atmosphere is more casual than Chateau Dionne, the focus on high-quality food remains. It’s clear that N.I.C.E Bistronome is another success for Chef Choy and a well-deserved one at that.
Reasons to visit N.I.C.E Bistronome: Gorgeous, intimate setting with loads of natural light above the kitchen during the day and a warm glow in the evenings; exceptional service; must-try the Niçoise Salad, Burrata with Figs and Hazelnut Crumble, and N.I.C.E. Tortellini.
NICE Bistronome
939, Jalan 17/38,
Seksyen 17, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia
*Below Doux Doux by Chateau Dionne
@nice_bistronome
+60125799309
Link to N.I.C.E. Bistronome on Google Maps
NICE Bistronome PJ Opening Hours
Daily: 11 am to 11 pm
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