Chef Fabio Brambilla’s Menu at Mandarin Grill KL
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Stepping into the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, we are greeted by a blend of elegance and comfort. The warm woods, the soft fabrics, and the stunning artwork transport us to a world of refinement and charm. While other hotels have sprouted around the KLCC park and fountains, the MO has remained a timeless and beloved destination in the city. Indeed, the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, holds a special place in my heart. When I relocated from the UK to Malaysia nearly 12 years ago, it was here that I stayed as I looked for a new apartment. Every time I visit the hotel for an event or dinner, I am reminded of the kindness and generosity of its fantastic staff, which was my first experience of the famous Malaysian hospitality. As I walked through the hotel’s marble-lined corridors of the hotel, I realised that it was precisely 12 years since I moved to live here in Malaysia and, after a quick calculation, my 40th piece writing for The Yum List.
MO Bar
Before we were seated for our dinner, we took the opportunity to sit down with Nigel Gan, director of marketing and communications for the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, and enjoy a drink in the newly refurbished MO Bar. I’ve always found this bar a delight; during the day, there are views over the verdant green KLCC park and at night of the glittering cityscape of towers that I’ve watched rising around the park during my time in KL.
When interviewed, a famous celebrity was asked the rather impolite question of whether she had ever undergone any cosmetic surgery to maintain her beauty. She simply replied, ‘Not anything that you would notice’, which would be a good summation of the recent renovations at the MO Bar. Nigel pointed out that the upholstery and carpeting have all been refreshed, and the lighting has been updated. It looks more contemporary and fresher, with the previous gold and beige fabrics exchanged for shades of grey and denim blue. Still, rather like that famous celebrity, you would not notice any dramatic change in appearance if your attention were not drawn to it.
Although bustling in the evenings, I appreciate that it never becomes too noisy. The expert use of soft furnishings and the dramatic gold panelling, which soars up from behind the banquette seating onto the ceiling, ensures that conversations do not carry and whispered confidences remain private and do not travel across the room.
Mixologist and bartender Nabil was on hand to prepare our favourite beverages and cocktails. Monica ordered a classic Martini (RM 68) from the extensive menu, which features all the old favourites and many that I’d not seen before. Monica’s martini featured 78 Degrees Gin from her native Australia. This award-winning spirit is made using a spirit base derived from grapes infused with three species of native wattleseed, which gives it notes of citrus and roasted coffee. Shaken over ice with dry vermouth, this higher strength 48% proof gin is perfect for a martini.
If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, Nabil enjoys the challenge of crafting individual cocktails tailored to each guest’s unique palate. When I requested a gin-based creation, he presented me with a visually stunning concoction reminiscent of a pisco sour: 78 Degrees Gin shaken with peach puree, egg whites, a squeeze of lemon, and a dash of Angostura bitters to balance the sweetness. It was eye-catching and garnished with delicate flower petals atop the creamy foam. While the peach puree added a richness that I thought was more suited to a sunny poolside setting than an aperitif, the drink was undeniably delicious.
Mandarin Grill
Although it would have been easy to linger longer at the MO Bar and sample more delicious cocktails, our dinner awaited, and we made our way to the restaurant. The Mandarin Grill is a place of classic charm. The soft velvet chairs in aquamarine, a hue that echoes in the ceiling’s carpeting, along with the crisp tablecloths and glittering glasses, welcome guests to a world of graceful luxury.
The anniversaries were to continue as we learned that it was precisely a year since Executive Chef Fabio Brambilla brought his lifetime of culinary expertise to Kuala Lumpur and the Mandarin Oriental. His lengthy career has spanned renowned establishments like the Hyatt and Park Hyatt in Key West and even the acclaimed Nusr-Et steakhouse in Dubai. That establishment, owned by Nusret Gökçe, better known as Salt Bae, a Turkish butcher, chef, and restaurateur, and the chain of restaurants that followed became known for the often conspicuously eye-watering bills that accompanied their delicious steaks as much as for the quality of the food. However, there is no need to remortgage your house to afford a trip to one of those restaurants. Chef Fabio has brought his renowned experience grilling meats and fish to the Mandarin Grill.
Chef Fabio impresses diners at the Mandarin Grill with his passion for grilling, particularly with the restaurant’s prized Josper grill. This unique cooking apparatus, invented by Josep Armangué and Pere Juli originating from Barcelona, combines a charcoal grill’s searing heat with an oven’s controlled temperature environment. Reaching temperatures over 500°C, the Josper allows Chef Fabio to expertly sear meats and fish, locking in flavour and moisture. He skillfully utilises the Josper to craft dishes with a distinctive smoky char and succulent tenderness.
Wine List
The Mandarin Grill’s extensive wine list offers a diverse selection of wines from around the world, with a particular focus on French and Italian labels. Notable features include a Coravin selection, a process for pouring wine without opening the bottle, allowing a greater selection of wines by the glass. Showcasing prestigious wines like Cloudy Bay Te Wahi and Pio Cesare Barbaresco, available by the glass. Champagne enthusiasts will appreciate the impressive range of options, including renowned houses like Bollinger, Veuve Clicquot, and Krug, with several vintage and prestige cuvées. The list also boasts a substantial selection of white Burgundies, including premier and grand cru Chablis and Meursault, as well as an impressive collection of red Bordeaux, featuring wines from prestigious chateaux like Latour, Lafite Rothschild, and Haut-Brion. While the list leans towards classic European wines, New World offerings are also represented, with selections from Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, and the United States. The “Sommelier’s Preference” section categorises wines by body and characteristic, aiding guests in their selection.
To accompany our starter dishes, we selected a bottle of the 2022 Domaine du Nozay Sauvignon Blanc from the Sancerre region of France (RM 318 or, by the glass, RM 64). It was a crisp and refreshing white wine, a classic expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape, that paired very well with the seafood dishes we had chosen. It had the zesty fruit flavours and minerality that are characteristics of the region.
We followed this with a 2019 Palazzo Maffei Amarone della Valpolicella (RM 438 for a bottle or RM 80 for a glass). This intense dark red wine perfectly accompanies steaks, hearty pasta dishes, or cheeses. It was full-bodied and featured notes of cherry and spices. Well-rounded with a smooth finish despite its robust flavours, we particularly enjoyed it with our grilled steak.
Chef Fabio Brambilla’s Menu
Amuse Bouche
As soon as we were seated, we were served a warm slice of sourdough bread and a freshly baked crisp white bread roll, which was accompanied by quenelles of curried and fresh herbed butter. An amuse-bouche followed this, resembling an Indian pani puri, crispy hollow little balls usually made from semolina flour. Instead of the usual curried or spiced filling, ours contained juicy raw diced salmon and a topping of glistening black caviar, which provided a salty pop.
Starters
The extensive starter menu, with ten dishes and four soups, catered to every taste, ensuring even the pickiest eater would find something to enjoy. I especially appreciated the careful allergen labelling on each dish, a thoughtful touch that’s becoming increasingly important for diners.
We started with the Pan-seared Tuna with Marinated Eggplant (RM 88). This dish is something I often order when dining out, yet it can frequently disappoint if this premium ingredient isn’t handled with care. No worries here; the tuna had been expertly seared around the edge, but the centre of the pink fish remained glistening and almost translucent; it had a light citrus dressing with dashes of balsamic vinegar and curled endive lettuce and micro herbs. It was finished with basil pesto, capers and finely diced tomatoes, which made this a flavoursome dish that would also be ideal for anyone watching their calories.
We followed with Cured Tuna & Bonito (RM 88). This is served with green asparagus and frisée salad, sourdough bread ‘Crudaiola’ dressing, and a raw tomato sauce more commonly used with pasta. While this dish was tasty, sharing it amongst us as a group, I found the cured tuna a little too salty for my palate, and perhaps it would have been too much so had I been consuming the entire dish on my own.
While the previous dish from Chef Fabio Brambilla’s menu was best shared, I recommend you order the one that followed entirely for yourself. The Bone Marrow (RM 125) was an absolute delight. A decadent culinary experience, the marrow was roasted until it became incredibly soft and buttery, with a luxuriously smooth mouthfeel perfect for spreading on the accompanying toasted sourdough bread. A parsley and garlic crumb completed this very moreish dish.
The Black Angus Beef Tartare (RM 145) was a masterclass in how this dish should be prepared. The finely chopped Angus beef was impeccably fresh and flavourful. Blended with capers, shallots, and a touch of Dijon, this premium cut was luxurious. It was served with crispy potatoes resembling dried linguine and sourdough bread nests, providing a textural contrast.
Our photographer, Han Sen, also tried the Minestrone Vegetable Soup (RM 80), which forgoes the pasta usually found in Minestrone but includes the slightly healthier grains of pearl barley. This lowers the carb count somewhat while still giving a creamy mouthfeel. Finished with Parmesan cheese and finely chopped herbs, this light and healthy starter is suitable for vegetarians.
Mandarin Grill Mains
No visit to the MO Grill would be complete without someone ordering a steak. Monica selected the Australian O’Connor Black Angus Beef, Grain Fed 130 Days Tenderloin (RM 390 – 180g, additional 50g at RM 108). It arrived at our table still gently steaming with a charcoal char from the Josper grill on the outside whilst remaining quite rare in its juicy, moist interior. Being grain-fed, with its diet of corn and grains, such steaks typically boast a richer marbling and buttery texture, yielding a tender and juicy experience. It was served with lightly cooked vegetables, a glossy beef Jus, and a roasted head of garlic. As she grew up in country Australia, Monica confided with Chef Fabio that she quite likes the leaner profile and fuller flavour of grass-fed steaks and encouraged him to consider adding at least one to the menu for other diners like herself.
I’d opted for the Homemade Ravioli (RM 118), and I complimented Chef Fabio on the thinness of his pasta, rolled until it was almost translucent, allowing me to see through it to the enclosed ricotta cheese and spinach filling. The spinach had been hand-chopped and retained a good texture. It was wrapped in a beautifully silky butter emulsion sauce and topped generously with Parmesan shavings and micro herbs.
Our photographer, Han Sen, chose the Barramundi Fish Fillet (RM 178), another healthy option for those wanting a nutritious, lighter dish. The portion of barramundi is generous, with a delicate, flaky texture under perfectly crisp skin. It sits in a flavoursome broth that includes capers, mushrooms, and tomatoes, all adding flavour but not undue calories. The broth had a sweetness and freshness that didn’t overwhelm the fish.
Sides
The zucchini gratin (RM 35) is a delightful alternative to the classic potato gratin, offering all the creamy, cheesy satisfaction with fewer carbs. Thinly sliced zucchini is layered with a rich béchamel sauce and topped with a generous layer of bubbling cheese and a dusting of finely chopped parsley.
I recently saw a meme on the Internet that read, ‘No matter what is going on in your life, there is some form of potato to make it better’, and in this case, the remedy to cure your ills is the Homemade thick-cut Fries (RM 35), impossibly crisp on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside and dusted with a thick blanket of Parmesan cheese, these were absolutely delicious. As soon as they were set down in front of us, I noticed that Monica’s hand immediately shot out to sample one. Unless you’re dining alone, I’d recommend ordering a few of these, as they disappear immediately.
Another classic side dish executed perfectly was the Grilled Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce (RM 35). Six chunky asparagus stems, crisp with a light char from a quick turn under the grill, had been lightly seasoned and doused under a blanket of rich hollandaise sauce and a dusting of chopped chives.
The final item of our quartet of sides was the Sautéed Farm Mushrooms (RM 35). A Finely sliced selection of fresh mushrooms was presented simply in a brown ceramic dish; their nutty, earthy flavours provided a refreshing counterpoint to the steak.
Desserts
By this stage, our waistlines were becoming a little strained, so we opted to share two desserts: the Strawberry Olive Oil Cake (RM 55) and the Chocolate Rocher (RM55). While the strawberry olive oil cake may not be the most visually striking dessert on the menu, its flavour is a delightful surprise. The olive oil diplomat cream provides a slightly savoury depth that compliments the sweetness of the strawberry gelato and gel with the yoghurt sponge, adding a light and airy texture. Though the presentation could be more refined, perhaps by serving it in a tall stemmed cocktail glass, its flavour didn’t disappoint. Chocolate lovers will be delighted with the Chocolate Rocher, which showcases Manjari 64% chocolate made from a single origin cocoa beans from Madagascar. The chocolate is fashioned into a tempered chocolate ring, which contains a delightfully light chocolate cream mousse Tahitian vanilla ice cream and is topped with a nut brittle.
Petit Fours
As we reminisced on the dinner we had just consumed, petit fours arrived at our table, which consisted of coin-sized sour cream cakes topped with flakes of gold foil and wonderful and salted chocolate mini cookies made from an intense, slightly bitter dark chocolate and topped with salt flakes.
Chef Fabio Brambilla’s Menu Review
Dining at the Mandarin Grill with friends, family, or a loved one always fosters an atmosphere of celebration and cherished memories. The setting is elegant and sophisticated, and the service is prompt, friendly, and efficient. This establishment remains a personal favourite because of the warm welcome and exceptional quality. With Chef Fabio at the helm, the restaurant steers a familiar path with few surprises.
Reasons to try Chef Fabio Brambilla’s Menu: a lovely setting on KLCC Park; impeccable service by the MO staff; a good range of veg, fish and meat dishes to satisfy a diverse dining group; excellent wine list, with many available by the glass, including premium drops, thanks to the Coravin system.
Mandarin Grill
Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 50088 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Mandarin Grill on Google Maps
+6 03-2330 8798
[email protected]
www.facebook.com/MOHKL
Mandarin Grill Opening Hours
Daily: 12 – 2 pm & 6 – 10:30 pm
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