Rosewood Luang Prabang – Sustainable Luxury
Words: Alison Christ
Photos: Monica Tindall (1, 7, 11, 16 & 20 supplied by property)
It’s been less than a week since we left Rosewood Luang Prabang behind, and I miss it. I am only now beginning to realise the powerful impact the place has on me. It’s inspired in me a bit of prose… I miss Noi, my spiritual advisor. I miss my new friend, Chef Ice. I miss the sound of the rapid water rushing past our villa. I miss Noy with a Y at the Elephant Bridge Bar and his nonchalant ways of creating things never before attempted. I miss the knowledge and the wonderful stories shared by our most gracious seersucker-wearing host, Adrien. I miss the other Noy and Khao (pronounced but not spelled cow) for their genuine concern and caregiving. I miss the fuzzy yellow caterpillar that will soon turn into a butterfly. I miss the black cat hiding in the shadows. I miss the 30+ herbs, fruits, and vegetables we consumed daily. I miss the water buffalo’s milk and her cheese and her ice cream. I miss the smell of wood-burning and frangipanis blooming and all those other unidentifiable things I caught in the breeze. I miss the Mekong and the people we shared time with, along with her stories. I miss the coffee and the fresh roasting beans. Luckily, I brought some of those home with me. Now I will brew the Lao beans, and I will drink the coffee, and I will write about my five glorious days at Rosewood Luang Prabang, and I will miss it less for a short while.
Rosewood Luang Prabang
A couple of months ago, Monica invited me on The Yum List trip to Luang Prabang. I’ve had a lot of big life changes recently (including moving countries and the loss of a beloved pet), so at the time of the invitation, I had no idea if I could do it. I wanted to, desperately, but I couldn’t commit. I decide last minute that I’m able to join Monica on this trip. Saying now, in hindsight, that I’m so happy I made it is an understatement. I feel immense gratitude, inspiration, and joy from just clicking “Yes, I confirm” on the flight payment button on my phone only six days before we are to fly to Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang Arrival Details
Lao immigration requires most foreigners to apply for a visa before entering the country. Depending on your nationality, you can apply online or get a visa on arrival. I check out the very efficient Lao Government-run website https://www.laoevisa.gov.la and pay the USD 50 fee to have my visa within three working days (which is Monday, the day we are to land in Luang Prabang). Cutting it close, I know. When I check my email on Monday morning my visa is there waiting for me. I print the visa and my boarding pass. I just need to pack, and I am ready to fly.
I’ve been to Laos once before but never to Luang Prabang (LP). Monica and I happen to be in Bangkok at the same time so we get to fly together from BKK to LP. A nice young man even offers to switch seats with me so Mon and I can sit together. Everything is running perfectly so far (and continues to do so, so much so that I now firmly believe Monica is my good luck charm). I’ve been in Southeast Asia for so long now that it doesn’t even occur to me that LP is in the mountains, and it might be chilly. I didn’t pack well and will have to wear the same scarf every day (no one noticed). Bring a jacket or a hoodie with you if travelling in the cooler months of November and December! More on the weather later.
Landing at Luang Prabang airport is beautiful and stunning, with so many mountains and so many passengers making videos out of their tiny windows. We are the only flight in the afternoon, so immigration won’t take forever. If you choose to do the visa on arrival you need to bring a passport photo and USD 50 in cash with you (the sign says visa-on-arrival $42, I would bring $50 to be safe). You will need to wait on the Visa-On-Arrival line, fill out a form, go back to the line, and then wait some more until they call you. I can’t judge exactly how long this process takes because Monica and I have our visas already printed and it takes us about 20 minutes to get through immigration.
Rosewood Luang Prabang
Directly in front of immigration, we are greeted by our smiling driver, holding a Rosewood sign displaying our names. As we head outside to our very nice Rosewood SUV, Monica and I are hit with an olfactory sensory overload. This beautiful burning wood, ever-so-fragrant flowers, and a hint of water buffalo (well, you know their… never mind). It reminds me of the first time I went to Australia. I got off the plane, and a huge whiff of eucalyptus smacked me. So powerful is our sense of smell, it plays a huge role in our memories and ability to tell stories.
Soaking it all in, we hop in the back of our cushy ride where we find snacks, and a glass bottle of water with actual glasses to drink from (no plastic, yay!). Did I mention I love snacks!? Ours are dried bananas and a local favourite, bamboo shoots. We hit the road for a quick 20-minute drive to our glorious, hidden, luxuriant home away from home, Rosewood Luang Prabang.
Rosewood Luang Prabang Location
Upon our arrival at Rosewood, we are greeted by Adrien Pons, the property’s general manager, and several of the front-of-the-house staff. I am just a little sleepy from the journey and I let them take all of my bags (one of them included my notebook). Adrien leads us into The Great House, where we are told to pick our favourite spot (it turns out to really become our favourite spot to have our meals and do some writing and editing). Adrien is fully animated. I am in awe of his energy and his perfect seersucker trousers and linen shirt. I wish I had a tape recorder and a pen, where is my pen? And my notebook? I take it everywhere! But here, I am afraid I will miss or forget one tiny bit of Adrien’s story, and I am forced to live in the moment and appreciate the surroundings and energy of this majestic place.
Noy serves us a spectacular welcome drink made from tamarind growing near the property mixed with local honey, palm sugar, and cinnamon. I really love this and make a mental note to try some with rum one evening. As we sip, Adrian continues with his passionate tales and says that every single little thing here at Rosewood Luang Prabang is done with purpose and has significance to the community and the environment. He lifts a simple handmade textile coaster and explains how these are crafted at a local art centre by deaf and mute artists. Next, he tells all about the handmade mulberry paper that we will find everywhere – on maps, menus, and greeting cards in our room, as well as the star nuts that Khao and his family grow up in the hills. Monica chimes in and mentions that this property was designed by Bill Bensley and that he is above and beyond focused on sustainability, environmental concern, and wildlife welfare, which seems a perfect match for the ethos of Rosewood Luang Prabang, Adrien and his team in honouring this UNESCO World Heritage site.
Bill Bensley Design
Bill Bensley fancies himself a jack-of-all-trades but is best known as an architect, interior designer, and landscape designer. He and his team have built more than 200 hotels and palaces in over 30 countries. In his free time, Bill is a painter, gardener, fisherman, and lover of all things involving nature, including his five Jack Russel Terriers.
You can see his admiration and respect for nature beaming brightly through his design at Rosewood. The property surrounds the historic royal settlement of Luang Prabang, a river that emanates from a nearby flowing waterfall that runs through the heart of this exotic retreat. Bensley was inspired by the French-Lao architecture (Laos was under French control from the late 19th century until it gained independence in 1953), for which the town is known. The resort’s interiors reflect the influences of ancient temples melding with French Colonial designs, while luxurious tented villas celebrate the explorer spirit. One of Bensley’s priorities when it comes to design is to create places that are unique to their context and story. He is a master and doesn’t disappoint.
When Bensley creates a design, he utilises his over 30 years of experience and offers suggestions on how to design better hotels to help fight climate change and make the world a better place. I have only been here for 15 minutes, and I already feel that the world is a better place.
Luxury Accommodation Luang Prabang
The resort offers 23 spacious accommodations, including four deluxe rooms, four specialty suites, three riverside villas, six pool villas, and six luxury tents. Each of the resort’s guest housings is bordered by the riverbank. The 75-square-metre luxury tented villas include private dining areas and wrap-around decks. Lao tradition and French colonial style are sensitively woven throughout the design and architecture, using indigenous materials and locally inspired artwork.
Monica and I are checking into one of the six pool villas, specifically, the Waterfall Pool Villa. Inspired by the nearby waterfalls, these special villas embrace indoor-outdoor living in the ultimate style. We take a leisurely walk along a trail following a small stream filled with lush green vegetation, flowers blooming everywhere, butterflies flittering about, and the sound of running water getting louder as we get closer to our villa. We arrive at our beautiful private wooden deck with our very own plunge pool directly overhanging a river, more like white-water rapids. Monica and I are giggling with joy and wonder as we head up the stairs to our (again private) outdoor patio and bar!
Each villa is named after an important historical figure. Ours is named after Dr Clovis Thorel, a famous botanist, explorer, and doctor whose Luang Prabang documented findings; the actual leaves, flowers, and butterflies have been preserved on handmade paper behind a plexiglass and hung above our outdoor fully-loaded-bar. During his lifetime, he described and catalogued over 4,000 species, and a significant number of plant species are named after him.
If you’re a botanist or, more likely, a home mixology enthusiast, you will love this. Our bar has everything you could possibly need (just call room service to bring ice). It’s stocked with pre-made Negronis (USD 21), Old Fashioneds (USD 30), Dry Martinis (USD 21), top-shelf spirits, fresh limes, and even a special knife hand-carved by a local tribesman knifemaker. I can see myself spending a lot of time out here, just sitting, reading, listening to the sound of the fresh rushing water and shaking a cocktail or two.
Monica yells for me to come look! We have a rain shower and an outdoor wooden bathtub (all we need to do is call room service, and our bath butler will prepare one for us). It’s getting close to 5 pm, and already the sun is setting; it’s getting chilly, I’d guess 19 or 20 degrees Celsius, so the plunge pool and outdoor bathtub will have to wait until the morning sun. Now, if you remember earlier, I said I would mention more about the weather later. If you’ve been living very close to the equator for a long time like Monica and I have – well, frankly, 19 degrees is freezing. If you are a normal person, 19 is perfectly refreshing and invigorating. Here is where I wish I grabbed a light jacket. The days ahead (we will soon find out) are glorious, filled with sunshine and white fluffy clouds. It’s even warm enough to take a dip in a waterfall.
A Luxurious Green Stay in Luang Prabang
Throughout our stay, I notice many things at Rosewood Luang Prabang that have a positive impact on the planet—glass water bottles that are refilled daily, the harnessing of the earth’s wind and running water to cool off a room or a bar, and utilising natural light in The Great House with open-air windows. As long as the sun is up, there’s no need for electric lighting at all. The swimming pools maintain a natural temperature year-round, inviting you to embrace the serene, eco-friendly setting.
There is a fireplace in the centre of The Great House. It’s not yet cold enough to fire it on this trip, although I am sure they would have if we requested it (and I would love it). We are told December and January are perfect to cosy up in front of the fireplace. Besides the details for conserving energy and natural resources, Rosewood Luang Prabang is committed to the community and supports the locals on many levels – from their dedicated buying of artisan crafts, fruits and vegetables, coffee and tea, eggs, chickens, pork products and local buffalo milk cheese to purchasing produce from Living Land Farm. They also send all food scraps to feed the pigs at the Lao Buffalo Dairy.
Monica reels me back in and says, “Let’s get ready and head back to The Great House for dinner.” So far, all I know is that Rosewood Luang Prabang’s unique culinary identity is focused on gastronomic Laotian flavours with seasonally sourced farm-to-table ingredients and that Chef Ice has something special planned for us tonight (read about The Great House Here).
Peaceful Nights by the River
After our fantastic Taste of Luang Prabang dinner experience at The Great House, Monica and I glide back to our villa and easily fall deep asleep on our comfy designer bed with Frette linen to the soothing sound of our private waterfall. We rise before the sun to a full day of activities prepared for us. Me and mornings don’t usually get a long so the help of the in-room coffee machine and a fine selection of different roasts… Lao, Arabica and Strong, supplied by local Lao coffee roasters Sinouk, is much appreciated at 4:45 am. It brews fresh and hot into my beautiful hand-crafted ceramic cup (ceramics are an artisanal specialty craft in LP, along with textiles and handmade paper). Mornings here aren’t so bad.
Lao Cultural Experiences
Besides having its own amazing food and beverage outlets and cultural experiences, Rosewood Luang Prabang takes great care in organising visits to several select, best-of-the-best, hand-picked venues and excursions. With their guidance, you can discover the hidden culinary and cultural gems of Luang Prabang and fully immerse yourself in the richness of this UNESCO World Heritage site. The day has been carefully curated for Monica and me. We find our way in the dark to our car and driver and to Noi, our English-speaking monk-in-residence (soon to become my spiritual advisor). He greets us with a warm smile and hands us probably the best cup of coffee I have ever had in my life. Maybe it’s the hour, or the company or that it’s just damn perfect.
Alms Ceremony Phanom Village, Laos
We have awoken before the sun today to head off for the Tak Bat alms-giving to the monks in Phanom Village. It’s about 20 minutes away, and we will be the only foreigners. This will be my first time experiencing this longstanding Buddhist tradition in the company of our activities master Noi. This is all new to me, and I have no idea what to expect. Monica has been here once before, seven years ago. She briefs me that we will feed the monks and that this is the only way the monks ever eat. Usually, it’s food from the village’s local women and, on occasion, like today, from some very lucky tourists like us. Noi guides us to the ground, where we sit on a mat, and the monks of all ages bang a bell to let us know they are coming; they walk quickly past each woman, and they place a handful of rice or pieces of fruit onto each monk’s basket.
This special experience is only about to get better. Noi tells us we will go into the temple and meditate together. As we walk into the temple, it’s just the beginning of dawn. There is a magical crescent moon up above, with the hint of daybreak peeking through the palm trees. We sit in front of many golden Buddhas, and Noi asks us if we will be okay for 15 minutes of meditation. I say YES with enthusiasm (Monica is more like… yes).
I meditate often, and I struggle with longevity; I usually manage 10 minutes. As I sit in front of the Buddhas, roosters are crowing loudly around us; I use my trick for breathing and counting 1-2, 1-2, 1-2, certain that Noi will “wake me” after 15 minutes. Suddenly, loud music comes from the village, and I open my eyes. The sun has risen and is glowing all around me; many different birds are chirping. I look over at Noi; he smiles and says it was 30 minutes, 15 plus 15! I feel amazing after this magical meditation. Monica is off taking stunning photographs, and my spiritual advisor tells me tales about white elephants, baby Buddha and Mother Earth – a moment I shall soon not forget. As we leave the temple, I see a sign on a tree that reads… ‘Everyone may be a fool, but no one is a fool forever.”
Luang Prabang Morning Market & Breakfast by the Mekong
After the alms ceremony and magical meditation, we head over to the Luang Prabang morning market. I am excited about this, but please let there be more coffee! Well, it’s not that kind of market; no coffee here, but we are assured that we will visit the super fab roaster Lu La Lao later on.
What we do find at the market is what you would expect Anthony Bourdain to have had a field day with. It’s very local and fascinating to see all the local delicacies. Monica is in a photographer’s paradise. We see living frogs and other amphibians of all shapes and sizes, worms, beetles, and even chargrilled rats! Of course, there is a beautiful display of flowers, fruits, vegetables and handicrafts. I walk quickly with hopes that our breakfast will be from the river and preferably killed and cooked for me in advance. Noi takes us to a famous outdoor breakfast spot right on the Mekong to eat like the locals. We order noodle dishes and enjoy each other’s company on the shore of the river floating past us.
Rosewood Luang Prabang Sunset River Cruise
We return to Rosewood for our “second breakfast” at our leisure and are informed that we will set off at 4 pm for the Rosewood Luang Prabang Sunset River Cruise (USD 390 per couple). Make sure you read about breakfast in my The Great House article—surely a breakfast not to be missed!
I have cruised down the Mekong before in Cambodia and find something majestic about being on this river. Everything on this trip so far has exceeded my expectations, I am eager to get on board. The Rosewood boat was refurbished by Dr. Linda S. McIntosh an expert in Lao textiles, designed to allow Rosewood guests a one-of-a-kind Mekong experience.
Before we arrive, Noi tells us we have snacks on the cruise. We also get a choice of a bottle of white, red or rosé! It’s rosé o’çlock and we choose the Spier Signature Collection Rosé, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2022. This is bringing back memories of one of the first reviews I did with The Yum List and Monica back in 2020 of the Spier wines of South Africa – wow. I am getting thirsty!
To say “exceeds our expectations” is an understatement. Wow, just wow. Dr. Linda McIntosh has blown us away. Through her work, Rosewood offers guests a unique insight into the culture, history, and beauty of the region and its textiles. There are several options to explore her work, including a visit to her home (just ask Rosewood for suggestions). If you fancy a cruise down the Mekong, don’t miss this.
Again, Monica and I are giggling like kids in a candy store. We have this beautiful hand-crafted wooden ship, with its intricate designs and our two private butlers all to ourselves. Noi, of course, has our rosé at the perfect temperature, pours us two glasses and shares a spread of yummy local dishes for us (snacks we were told – generous snacks). They even have a Bluetooth speaker for music. I put on a playlist, look Monica in the eyes, we cheers, sip our rosé and sit back to watch the golden orange sun setting over the Mekong River.
Elephant Bridge Bar
After a glorious, soul-cleansing cruise down the Mekong, we head back to Rosewood, and we’re greeted by Chef Ice, eagerly waiting to see if we are still hungry. After two breakfasts and “snacks” on the boat we can’t possibly manage dinner. But Chef, you know what I would love?! Cheese and wine! Monica agrees and Chef suggests for a change of scenery that we enjoy our cheese and wine over at the Elephant Bridge Bar. What a fantastic idea, Chef; please join us. Chef obliges, check out our spectacular cocktail and cheese experience here.
Rosewood Luang Prabang
The next morning, our final morning in this most magical place, after my daily meditation practice (which has been getting better every day), I sit here outside our villa next to the waterfall, watching the dragonflies dance around a statue of Mother Earth as she watches over me from the middle of the river. I spend some time reflecting on the perfect clientele for staying at Rosewood Luang Prabang – all lovers of nature, outdoor spaces, and forest bathing. It’s an awesome place to meditate by the running stream, and there is a beautiful lush lawn for your daily yoga practice. For writers, it’s a paradise where creativity can flow. Turn your phone off and leave the outside world behind. No TV’s here, but if you must communicate with the world there is very good WiFi almost everywhere on the property. There are surprisingly no monkeys here to steal your mangoes off the table. I am an animal lover, so I always like seeing monkeys, but they can be pests. So not to worry about the nature coming for you here at Rosewood. The wildest thing I saw was an amazing fuzzy florescent yellow caterpillar walking along a leaf awaiting his fate of turning into a butterfly (if you see one of these guys don’t touch it – they don’t like humans). The property abounds with beautiful butterflies, dragonflies, birds, flowers and lush vegetation. Everything smells so good. The air is fresh and clean.
Rosewood Luang Prabang will also make you happy with its exquisite room services and amenities with twice-daily housekeeping with evening turndown including snacks like cheese and beer one night, and every afternoon fresh fruit put on our patio table, each day a different type. I wonder how many days we can stay before they have to repeat a fruit? A while, I imagine.
If exercise is your thing, there’s complimentary use of mountain or city bicycles. You can hop on a bike and ride next door (5 minutes) to the Pullman Hotel, where you can use their gym free of charge. Just ask the Rosewood front desk to give them a ring when you’re headed over so they can greet you and give you the access card to the gym. Monica and I found no shortage of exercise and physical activities (drinking cocktails is not included), swimming in waterfalls, laps in the pool, and hiking through the bear sanctuary or Rosewood property. There is even a hill you can climb in town for a spectacular view of LP (we had this on our list of things to do but didn’t have time). If you’re not in exercise mode, Rosewood Luang Prabang offers a chauffeur-driven SUV or tuk-tuk options for getting into town.
If your ethos for sustainability and the planet is in line with Rosewood, Bensley Design and our wonderful host, Adrien, you will be thrilled at how brightly it shines throughout. Adrien treats the staff like family, encouraging them to visit the buffalo farm, the Living Land Farm, and coffee plantations so they can learn and grow and add to their guests’ wonderful experiences. He supports their crafts and encourages everyone to grow and learn.
My final thoughts about Rosewood Luang Prabang are that it’s not only an exotic retreat in the mountains; it’s a living biodynamic farm. Yes, that’s what it’s like at Rosewood Luang Prabang, a biodynamic property where everything lives and works to complement each other, thriving together and giving life back to the land.
Reasons to stay at Rosewood Luang Prabang: magic, spiritual enlightenment, amazing hospitality team working with care and love, Chef Ice and his culinary creations, abundance of herbs, spices, fruits & vegetables, epic breakfast spread, amazing coffee & tea, give your daily yoga & meditation practice some love, forest bathing, hit your 30 plus required fruits and veg, fantastic cocktails, good selection of wine, the free-flow Taste of Luang Prabang Tasting Menu, shuttle service, extracurricular activities, buffalo milk cheese plate, and the hammock over the river at Elephant Bridge Bar
Rosewood Luang Prabang
Ban Nadueay Village, Luang Prabang, 06000, Laos PDR
+856 7121 1155
[email protected]
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