Chiqui Don – Spier `Seaward’ Wine Lunch

Chiqui Don – Spier `Seaward’ Wine Lunch

Words: Alison Christ  Photos: Monica Tindall

If you’re lucky enough to live in the affluent suburb of Damansara Heights you’ll find lots of neighbourhood bars and eateries to satisfy your every whim. If you live in the city centre, as I do, Damansara can be a nice break from the bustle of KLCC. Chiqui Don may be new to the heights but the guys behind the scenes (founders Pradeep and Kuhan) say they’re no strangers to F&B. Chiqui Don means `Small Mafia Boss’ and we were assured that they are not a front for any illicit business, thank goodness.

Chiqui Don Bukit Damansara

In an effort to increase awareness of Chiqui Don’s hot corner spot on the strip, they hosted a three-course lunch (with four starters) and a wine pairing of South Africa’s Spier wines. We enjoyed four wines and several dishes that were paired by sommelier David Stephan. David is Albert Wines and Spirits’ “Resident Wine Geek” and is a French professional sommelier and wine educator. Catch him hosting some fun wine tastings around the city.

The food at Chiqui Don is a fusion of local and global flavours, with a special thing called crowdsourcing, where they allow their regular guests the opportunity to suggest menu items. A few lucky regulars will get their choice added to the menu.

Chiqui Don Menu

In the Heights, apparently day drinking is a popular thing. We were instructed to appear at noon sharp and upon arrival, already a dozen people were drinking cocktails. I really did appreciate the noon sharp on the invite; it was a noble attempt in getting Malaysians to an event on time. As per KL standard, noon sharp was 12:45, which was actually okay with me and Monica since this was a day drinking event, another 45 minutes with our coffee was perfect. We eventually do let the bar guys twist our arms and happily accept a pretty blue `Chiqui Velvet’ cocktail, which is quite refreshing, consisting of white and dark rum, blueberry puree, egg whites, and a dash of lemon, perfect for breakfast!

Spier `Seaward’ Wines

David paired our lunch with Spier `Seaward’ wines from South Africa (SA) because they are food wines, which is extremely helpful when doing a pairing. It may seem obvious, but some wines are just better for sitting back on a comfy chair and sipping. The Spier wines paired well with Asian ingredients. All of the dishes at Chiqui Don have a touch of Asian inspiration to them.

The choice of using South African wines was apropos to the current global concerns as the SA government put an almost six-month ban on the sale and distribution of alcohol. Besides the obvious, (holy s*!# how could anyone survive that long without booze?!) the ban has negatively affected the economy and thousands of jobs. I have a few winemaker friends in the country and they are really struggling to stay in business and support their family, staff and local farmers. Finally, the government has come to their senses and now wine businesses are allowed to operate again (including the exportation of wine to the rest of the world).

Spier Farm

Spier located in Stellenbosch is a certified organic farm hosting a variety of free-roaming livestock, vineyards and other fruits and veggies. As one might suspect, the `Seaward’ range of grapes is selected from SA’s top coastal areas close to the cold waters of the Atlantic and the moderate temperatures of the False Bay. This allows the grapes to gain the perfect ripeness with awesome acidity, two of the things that make them fit well with Asian cuisine.

South Africa is considered to be the new world, however, it has a long turbulent winemaking history ranging from apartheid to pandemic, dating as far back as 1652. The soil and terroir are some of the oldest on the planet. I always joke that you can taste the fossilized dinosaurs in their rich ancient soil. The regular cooling fog, ocean breezes and diversity of soil types make it an ideal spot for grape growing. While classified as new world in modern-day winemaking, the terroir is most certainly old world.

Spier `Seaward’ Sauvignon Blanc, Cape Town 2018

We start the tasting with the Spier `Seaward’ Sauvignon Blanc, Cape Town 2018 with the Watermelon and Feta Cheese Salad. The nose is brimming with freshly cut grass, salinity and ocean breezes. The palate is full of seashells, grapefruit, minerality and vibrant acidity. I found a running theme in all of the Seaward wines… big, bold acidity. Something fun I love to do when I’m teaching a wine class or leading a blind tasting is what I call “the acid test.’ If you’re drinking wine right now then you can try it along with me (if you’re not drinking wine right now – go get some!). Take a sip, swish it around in your mouth, swallow, then immediately lower your chin to your chest and open your mouth, be careful not to drool on your favourite shirt. The acidity in the wine will cause you to salivate, the higher the acid the more you’ll salivate. This is important because acidity is one of the best tools for a successful wine and food pairing. Acid likes acid, so this Sauvignon Blanc pairs great with the fresh acidity in the salad dressing and feta cheese.

Spier `Seaward’ Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2017

The Spier `Seaward’ Chenin Blanc, Swartland 2017 pairs quite well with the Chili Crab Dip. As the name suggests, it has some heat. The Chenin works well to balance the heat on your palate. Chenin Blanc, the most widely planted grape in SA, is originally from Loire Valley, France and happens to be my favourite white grape varietal. It comes in all shapes and sizes ranging from dry to sweet, sparkling to still, oaked to unoaked. The Seaward has a touch of new oak and a hint of malo (malolactic fermentation for the wine nerds out there). Even with the touch of malo, the classic Chenin characteristics are still there; apple pie, cashew butter with extremely bright acidity and tropical fruits in the background.

Spier `Seaward’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Coastal Region 2016

Moving onto the reds, the Spier `Seaward’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Coastal Region 2016 pairs well with the Greek Meatballs. It’s an easy-drinking red with tons of black and red berries and some classic Cab notes of pencil shavings and black pepper. To my delight, it goes with the spicy food on the table. Here again, the acid was strong, longing for food, but out of all four wines, the Cab wouldn’t mind a little alone time with a seat on the patio.

Spier `Seaward’ Pinotage, Coastal Region, 2017

The Spier `Seaward’ Pinotage, Coastal Region, 2017 is served with a not-so-classic version of Wild Mushroom Truffle Risotto. This deep coloured red has ripe dark fruits on the nose and tonnes of earth and clay on the palate. With firm tannins and a big body, it again showcases fresh, bright acidity enhancing its food pairing capabilities.

Pinotage is a hybrid of Pinot Noir and Cinsault created in the 1920s in an effort to make a South African signature varietal that wouldn’t struggle as Pinot Noir does. If you find wine sometimes baffling then Pinotage may help add to your confusion. The name is a blend of “Pinot” from Pinot Noir and “tage’ from Hermitage, not to be confused with syrah from Hermitage, France. Hermitage was a term used for Cincault in SA. Pinotage is a difficult grape and an even harder one to make into exceptional wine. A typical characteristic of the grape can be burnt rubber, which as you can imagine, may be unpleasant. When done correctly, the grape has a lot to offer and compliments game and barbeque perfectly – classics in SA. I enjoyed the Seaward Pinotage and recommend it for people that like a bold, exciting wine.

Hats off to Chiqui Don for serving and supporting the wines of South Africa when they need it the most. The Spier `Signature’ (not the Seaward) wines are available on a regular basis at Chiqui Don. You can enjoy a bottle of Chenin Blanc RM168 or Pinotage RM168 while people-watching at the unique half inside – half outside corner bar in the Damansara Heights.

Reasons to visit Chiqui Don: day drinking, corner seats on the patio, fun events, South African wines.

Chiqui Don
9-G, Jalan Medan Setia 1,
Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara,
50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+6 01 7212 5158
[email protected]
www.chiquidon.com

Chiqui Don Opening Hours
Mon-Sun 12:00 PM -10:00 PM

More on KL’s wine scene here and stay up-to-date with the latest gourmet and travel recommendations for Malaysia here and here.