The Hill Station Hoi An
Words: Louise Miller
Photos: Monica Tindall
The rain has finally cleared in Hoi An, and we are off to The Hill Station for a leisurely afternoon of prandial indulgence. Located amidst the tailors of the old town, this stunning century-old colonial shophouse is home to the Norwegian-owned, European and Vietnamese-inspired deli and wine bar.
The popularity of the place is clear from the buzz of locals and tourists joyfully sipping wine and grazing on platters of cheese and cold cuts. We marvel at the gorgeous original features and vivid contrasting colours of both the walls and the artwork. If it weren’t for the Buddha statue and the imposing, original Bằng Chứng (temple plaque) over the entrance to what used to be the prayer room, you might feel like you’d stepped into a Van Gogh painting. Before even tasting any food and wine, we already know that this is a place we’d love to linger.
We meet founder Tommy Eggen who tells us The Hill Station’s story. He opened his first, The Hill Station, back in 2011 in the mountains of Sapa (hence the name) as a European-style deli, which soon became a popular gathering spot for trekkers and expats alike. Four years later, chance brought him to this beautiful old building in Hoi An where not only has he kept alive both the name and spirit of the original beloved venue but also expanded into a small empire with his partners, now comprising no fewer than five food destinations in Hoi An. Mari Hoerstad, who has been with the company since 2020, currently serves as the General Director, contributing to the continued growth and success of the brand.
We begin our meal here with a Reuben Sandwich à la The Hill Station (VND 285.000), an interpretation of the classic made with a very generous amount of pastrami, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing with homemade pickled red cabbage rather than sauerkraut on a sourdough panini. This sandwich has long been a favourite of mine as I love the peppery flavour of the pastrami combined with melted cheese and the sourness of the pickles. The Hill Station’s interpretation does not disappoint, as it is both hearty and packed with flavour. To accompany it, we opt for a glass of Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc (VND 195.000), whose crisp citrus notes offer the perfect balance, cutting through the richness of the sandwich.
Next, we sample the Raclette and Bell Pepper Crostini (VND 95.00). The melted cheese is delicious—its slightly toasty and nutty notes are balanced with a sharp savouriness. The sweet tang of the capsicums and its wonderfully gooey texture make each bite irresistible. The fresh strawberry notes and delicate finish of the paired Belle Epine Grenache-Syrah Rosé (VND 115.000) offer a delightful contrast while enhancing the richness of the cheese.
Finally, it wouldn’t feel right to leave without sampling one The Hill Station’s signature platters. We choose the Mixed Gourmet Plate (VND 445.000), which features two cold cuts, three cheeses and various accompaniments such as mango jam, juicy green olives, dried fruit, gherkins and grapes. The smoky chorizo and ham torchon are perfect charcuterie companions, each offering delicious contrast in flavour. The cheeses – Manchego, Tomme and Bleu d’Auvergne – span a wide range of textures and flavours from mild and nutty to the sharp and pungent notes of the blue cheese – this is a fantastic medley. To complement this, we choose the Aimé Arnoux Côtes du Rhône (VND 195.000), which reveals wonderful aromatics with notes of dark chocolate and ripe cherries that follow through in the palate and linger beautifully on the in the finish.
Reasons to visit The Hill Station Hoi An: A cosy and charming environment in a historical building, delicious cheese and charcuterie, a well-chosen wine selection, and excellent service. Must order the Reuben Sandwich.
The Hill Station Hoi An
321 Nguyen Duy Hieu,
Can Chau, Hoi An, Vietnam
[email protected]
+84-235-629-2999
The Hill Station Hoi An Opening Hours
Monday – Sunday: 7am – 10pm
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