Vincognito Hoi An – Wine Bar & Trattoria
Words; Louise Miller
Photos; Monica Tindall
Down an unassuming yet charming alleyway in the old town of Hoi An, set back from the narrow street, stands the stunning Art Deco villa that houses the new Italian wine bar and trattoria, Vincognito. Promising fine wine and authentic Italian flavours, the restaurant is one of the latest offshoots from the people behind Lim Dining Room with the kitchen led by Italian Chef Alessio Rasom. With a background honing his craft in a series of Michelin-starred restaurants, we’re confident that we’re in for a wonderful and memorable experience.
At least as impressive as its majestic columned facade, the villa’s interior design offers a dramatic contrast. Dark wood, black leather bar stools, and geometrical patterned-tiled floors blend with luxurious fabric curtains and bold black walls to create a strikingly stylish atmosphere. A staircase with an intricately designed wrought-iron bannister leads up to a mezzanine gallery, where a cluster of bare lightbulbs hangs at varying lengths, creating a sleek, contemporary focal point that perfectly complements the restaurant’s unmistakably sexy and seductive vibe!
We meet our host, Carl Thomas, with a long history of F&B management from both his native England and adopted Vietnam. He embodies the restaurant’s three cornerstone concepts: wine, vinyl, and art, blending his passion for each to create a vibrant and memorable dining experience.
As you’d expect in such a setting, the wine and cocktail selection is extensive and thoughtfully curated. The wine list is cleverly divided into five distinct categories: The Classics, The Hidden Gems, The Odd Ones Out, and Icons, with a section dedicated to house pours and even two additional alcohol-free wine options. Thanks to the Coravin system, there are no fewer than eleven wines available by the glass, offering even greater variety and flexibility.
We start our meal with Cacciucco Fish Soup (VND 255.000), a specialty from the coastal regions of Tuscany. Like many Italian soups, this is more like a hearty stew. Tradition has it that there should be no fewer than five varieties of seafood, one for each ‘C’ in Cacciucco and Vincognito’s interpretation of the dish respects the rule with its plump shrimp, squid, and various fish in a delicate tomatoey broth. We pair this with a glass of La Chablisienne Chablis (VND 295.000). Its fresh, mineral notes and crisp acidity complement the subtle briny flavours of the soup, balancing the delicate flavours perfectly.
Our next course is Strozzapreti Pasta Amatriciana (VND 285.000), another Tuscan delicacy whose name means ‘priest strangler’ and inspired by the anticlerical sentiments in the region towards the end of the nineteenth century. In addition to its twisted rope shape, which evokes something that could be used to choke an unsuspecting clergyman, the pasta is the perfect vehicle for the rich tomatoey and guanciale sauce and ensures that each bite is bursting with bold, tangy and smoky flavours. To partner the pasta, we choose a glass of the house pour Caravaggio Bacchus Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (VND 125.000), whose notes of ripe red cherries and blackberries, coupled with its velvety mouthfeel, enhance the dish with a smooth, fruity contrast.
Our final dish is Beef Brasato in Cauliflower Purée and Cranberry. Meaning braised, the Brasato hails from Northern Italy and showcases the strong culinary ties between Italy and France, with the beef slow-cooked in red wine to tender perfection. The result is melt-in-your-mouth meat, rich in flavour. The creamy cauliflower offers a lighter and healthier alternative to traditional potato, while the tartness of the cranberry cuts through the dish’s richness, adding freshness. A glass of 2019 Aster Crianza Tempranillo (VDR 495.000) accompanies the dish, its smooth tannins and vibrant red fruit notes perfectly complementing the savoury richness of the beef.
Next door to Vincognito and sharing its kitchen is its Thai neighbour whose equally intriguing name, Hidden Thaiger, is appropriately evocative of its obscured entrance. Set back further than the entrance to Vincognito; you need to walk down a narrow passage that flanks the building to find its entrance. It’s another beautifully decorated space: light and airy with pale green painted walls, fresh flowers, lighter wooden tables and stunning artwork that is clearly a signature feature of Lim Hospitality Group’s venues. We wish we had the time and appetite to sample some of the food here but make a mental note to add this to a future visit.
Reasons to visit Vincognito Hoi An: A fun yet sophisticated vibe perfect for a gathering of friends or a romantic date night; delicious and authentic Italian food and excellent choice of wines.
Vincognito Hoi An
47/6 Tran Hung Dao Street,
Minh An, Hoi An City,
Quang Nam, Vietnam
[email protected]
+84 934 740 229
Vincognito Hoi An Opening Hours
Monday to Sunday: 5 pm-midnight
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