Brasserie Alma – French Restaurant & Live Music Venue
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
In the heart of Soho’s theatreland, nestled discreetly behind a Soho florist, The Ivy stands as a London institution, a private members’ club renowned since 1917 for its refined cuisine, impeccable service, and sophisticated ambience. While not a member myself, a good friend of mine is and generously invites me along when I am back home visiting the UK. It has been a haven for luminaries of the arts and entertainment, past and present, such as Alec Guinness, Noël Coward and Merlene Dietrich and more recently, stars such as Daniel Craig and Nicole Kidman, who frequent its elegant spaces before and after West End performances.
The Ivy and similar establishments, such as Soho House and the Ned, contribute significantly to London’s distinctive cultural landscape, highlighting for me a gap in the market in KL’s cultural scene. Whilst this city undoubtedly boasts impressive architecture, a thriving financial sector, and a burgeoning luxury hospitality scene, it has perhaps lacked a venue that seamlessly blends cocktails, fine dining, and sophisticated live music, a void keenly felt since the closure of the beloved ‘No Black Tie’ in Bukit Bintang.
Therefore, I was thrilled to accept an invitation to go along with The Yum List to experience Brasserie Alma. This establishment, very much reminiscent of The Ivy and Soho House, promises to fill this void, offering a similar refined atmosphere, blending drinks, dining and the arts. Finally, Kuala Lumpur gains a venue of this calibre, and, remarkably, you don’t need to be a member or a celebrity to get inside!
Brasserie Alma – French Restaurant & Live Music Venue
Brasserie Alma is located on the fourth floor of Yap Ah Shak House. Entering through elegant, floor-to-ceiling panelled glass doors framed in sleek black metal, we were greeted by a stylishly minimalist ambience. The space is defined by clean white walls and ceilings, softened by dramatic, full-length black velvet drapes that add a touch of luxury and sophistication and provide crucial acoustic dampening – a welcome departure from the echoing spaces found in many modern establishments. A striking series of monochromatic, Art Deco-inspired panels lines one wall, depicting a lively 1920s jazz-age party. This elegant, pared-back space features crisp white linens, chic black-painted chairs, and subtle, focused lighting that perfectly illuminates both the menu and the food—no need to whip out your phone and turn on the torch to read the menu here.
Brasserie Alma truly comes alive from Wednesday to Saturday evenings with captivating live music performances. The emphasis is on jazz and swing, featuring talented local artists like Bonahop and The Frankie Sixes, whom I’ve seen perform in other venues many times. This dynamic group, led by award-winning singer-songwriter Reza Salleh, is known for its vibrant interpretations of jazz standards and original Malay compositions.
I was pleasantly surprised and admittedly a bit starstruck during my visit when Reza appeared and introduced himself. He had been watching another band rehearse and do their sound checks in the adjacent room, separated by a floor-to-ceiling curtain, and came across to add a personal welcome. Reza, who curates the musical program at Brasserie Alma, expressed his enthusiasm for this elegant new venue, highlighting the exceptional sound equipment and acoustics. It’s clear that Brasserie Alma is committed to providing a top-notch musical experience for both performers and patrons alike.
Wine List
Brasserie Alma has a refreshingly concise and essentially affordable wine list. Although this is certain to grow over the coming year, there are currently six champagnes, one rosé, two whites, two reds and two dessert wines.
We began with a glass of Ayala Brut Majeur (RM 75 per glass, RM 450 for a bottle), a classic non-vintage Champagne. This elegant cuvée is renowned for its crisp character and refined flavour profile. On the palate, we found it delightfully dry and refreshing, with a delicate mousse that carried notes of green apple, pear, and a subtle minerality. This Champagne blends Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, with a significant portion of reserve wines adding depth and complexity. The Ayala Brut Majeur offered a clean, persistent finish, making it an ideal aperitif.
During our meal, we explored the La Vieille Ferme collection, a renowned brand crafted by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel fame. These wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon region offer a taste of Southern France. The white, a blend of Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc, Roussanne, and Grenache Blanc, displayed a pale-yellow hue with refreshing citrus fruit and mineral acidity, complementing the salmon dish. The 2023 Rosé, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, offered aromas of red fruit and a palate of pink grapefruit and peach notes, pairing well with our salad. Lastly, the red, composed of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Cinsault, was a light red colour with a surprisingly dense body, ripe fruit notes, and a peppery finish, making it an ideal companion for the steak.
All the La Vieille Ferme wines offer remarkable value, priced at RM 28 per glass and RM 135 per bottle. Their approachable style and high quality make them an excellent choice for house wine, and the consistent pricing across the range simplifies the ordering process. This straightforward approach to the wine list is a welcome change from the often overwhelming complexity found in other establishments. Brasserie Alma ensures a satisfying experience for those who may not be wine experts by focusing on a selection of well-priced, easy-to-understand wines.
French Restaurant Menu
Entrées
Like in any decent French brasserie, a bread basket quickly appeared at our table, containing sliced baguette and freshly baked rolls, alongside three kinds of butter, salted, truffle and parsley. We were told that the rolls were baked in-house, and they were my favourite of the two, with a soft, even texture.
Our meal started with Chèvre Chaud & Poire (RM 22). The dish, suitable for vegetarians, featured slivers of tender confit pear, its sweetness complementing the creamy richness of imported goat cheese from the Loire Valley.
Next up was Black Angus Steak Tartare (RM 58, 110g), and despite Head Chef Antoine Commare’s absence on the day of our visit, his kitchen staff still excelled, and their knife skills were impeccable. It was served with a generous serving of crisp, piping-hot thin-cut fries. The raw flank steak was tender and finely diced, mingling beautifully with shallots, gherkins, capers, and judicious seasoning. Bravo, indeed.
Potage (Soup)
The menu featured two tempting soups; we couldn’t resist trying both. First, we sampled the Bisque de Fruits de Mer à la Marseillaise (RM 26), a classic seafood bisque. While I generally enjoy the rich flavours of a good seafood bisque, I’ve often found that some versions, with an aggressively salty broth, can be overly intense. However, we were assured that the chef had meticulously refined this recipe through trial and error. The result was a beautifully balanced bisque with a delicate crustacean flavour and a subtly creamy finish. It contained soft creamy prawns and tender mussels; luckily, I had a few slices of baguette to mop up the last drops of the tasty bisque.
Next, we sampled the Gratinée à l’oignon (RM 28), a classic French onion soup. This dish is a personal favourite of mine. Achieving the perfect balance of flavours requires patience and precision, as the onions must be caramelised slowly to develop the signature sweetness and depth, but cook them a little too long, and they burn, introducing bitter notes. Thankfully, there was no such concern here. The soup boasted a rich, comforting sweetness and a beautiful golden hue. A generous crouton laden with melted Emmenthal cheese created those delightful, cheesy strings as we scooped it from the traditional double-handled bowl. This was French onion soup done right.
Plats Principaux- Main Courses
Our main courses began with the Saumon à l’oseille (RM 48). This dish was an example of culinary simplicity and elegance. A pan-seared salmon fillet, with tender flaky flesh, was presented on a bed of vibrant wilted spinach. With its subtle tanginess, a delicate sorrel reduction enhanced the salmon’s natural flavours without overpowering them. The dish was finished with a crispy twist of fish skin, providing a nice textural contrast.
Back in my native UK, I was surprised to read recently that the UK’s deer population has exploded to over two million, and has become a cause for concern, leading to ecological imbalances and a rise in road accidents. Culling, while necessary, raises questions about utilising the meat. Thankfully, there’s a growing movement to embrace venison as a sustainable and healthy protein source. So, I was pleased to find Venaison Poêlée aux Cèpes (RM 84) on the menu at Brasserie Alma.
Our venison arrived pan-seared, accompanied by porcini mushrooms and a rich porcini sauce. While cooked to a perfect medium, Monica and I agreed that we generally prefer our venison to be slightly rarer to retain maximum moisture. However, this is simply a personal preference. As with ordering a steak, it’s always best to inform your waiter of your desired level of doneness.
No visit to a French brasserie would be complete without indulging in the quintessential Steak Frites (RM 78, 210g). Brasserie Alma’s rendition featured a grilled Hereford ribeye, cooked medium-rare, with a beautifully charred exterior and a juicy, tender interior. It was accompanied by a generous helping of creamy Béarnaise sauce, its richness complementing the robust flavour of the beef. And, of course, no Steak fries is complete without a mountain of those irresistible thin-cut fries.
Though tempted to proceed directly to dessert, we were persuaded to sample the Sélection de Fromages Affinés (RM 92). The cheese platter featured a carefully curated selection of cheeses: Morbier, Fourme d’Ambert, Camembert, and Petit Reblochon. Presented on a rustic wooden board, the cheeses were accompanied by a generous assortment of dried fruit, nuts, grapes, honey, and house-made fruit chutney; I particularly enjoyed the creamy Camembert. This platter would be a satisfying choice for two diners forgoing dessert, or enough for three to four people seeking a taste of artisanal cheeses before moving on to sweeter offerings.
Dessert
The Île Flottante (RM 22), a cloud of meringue gently resting on crème anglaise with delicate spun caramel and toasted almonds, was a delightful and unusual dessert for me. Being from the UK, I had never encountered this sweet treat until it was featured on ‘The Great British Bake Off.’ Seeing the contestants tackle this unfamiliar dish was fascinating, revealing how varied culinary knowledge can be across cultures. It was a surprise challenge for the unsuspecting contestants to prepare with a limited list of ingredients and no method. The resulting desserts were quite humorous, given that nearly all of the competitors, like myself, had no idea what this dessert looked like, let alone how it tasted or was prepared. French friends of mine, of course, say “Ah Île Flottante!’ recognising the common dish they have known since their childhood, perhaps in the same way that the British steamed pudding “Spotted Dick” arouses confusion and bewilderment when non-British people spy it on a menu in a restaurant or gastropub. I’m pleased to say that Brasserie Alma’s Chef not only understands the essence of this dessert but prepared it beautifully. Perhaps he should enter the Great British Bake Off next season!
Despite a full stomach, the Poire Belle Hélène (RM 28) was a lovely, simple dessert. Perfectly poached, firm pears in cinnamon syrup were covered in dark chocolate and almonds, atop vanilla ice cream. The pears’ natural flavour was preserved, avoiding excessive sweetness or cooking.
We enjoyed a glass of 2018 Le Tertre du Lys d’Or Sauternes (RM 79 per glass, RM 350 per bottle) from France’s renowned Sauternes region. Its luscious sweetness, due to “noble rot,” concentrates the grapes’ flavours and sugars. The labour-intensive production is reflected in its price. We detected marmalade, orange honey, and fig notes, pairing well with our cheese and dessert selections.
Brasserie Alma Review
Brasserie Alma offers a sophisticated yet accessible dining and entertainment experience. The elegant ambience, reminiscent of renowned London establishments like The Ivy and Soho House, is complemented by a focus on live jazz and swing music, creating a multi-purpose space and ideal location for a complete evening out.
Reasons to visit Brasserie Alma: sophisticated ambience of an exclusive members’ club without the hefty price tag or membership requirements! Savour delicious dishes like their classic French onion soup and perfectly prepared Steak Frites, or perhaps a delicate Goat Cheese and Mesclun Salad and the delightful Île Flottante. Well-priced and easy to navigate wine list.
Brasserie Alma French Restaurant & Live Music Venue KL
Level 4, 17, Jalan Yap Ah Shak, Chow Kit,
50300 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Brasserie Alma on Google Maps
+6 011 4051 0038
www.brasseriealma.co
Brasserie Alma Opening Hours
Wednesday to Monday: 11 am–3 pm, 6–10 pm
Live Performances: Wednesday to Saturday (cover charge RM 65)
Tuesday: Closed
Find more French restaurants in KL here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene with The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.