Ancient Rome gets a modern West Australian makeover at Garum, a top Italian restaurant in Perth where tradition, technique and terroir come together on the plate.
Monica Tindall
If your idea of Roman cuisine begins and ends with carbonara, think again. Garum gives ancient flavours new life. History is plated with precision, warmth and just a hint of West Australian flair.
Garum, Italian Restaurant Perth
Garum Italian restaurant is the proud offspring of a collaboration between celebrated chef Guy Grossi and The Westin Perth. It offers award‑winning Roman‑style Italian dishes served in a stylish yet relaxed setting. Named after the famed fish sauce that was the backbone of ancient Roman cooking, the restaurant honours both time‑tested techniques and contemporary Italian recipes. From the thoughtful wine list—drawn with a nod to Lazio and a salute to the local wine scene—to the tongue‑tingling Aperitivo at the bar, Garum weaves a narrative where Ancient Rome and the modern palate meet. Every dish feels like a delicious dialogue across centuries, and tonight, my fork is the conversation starter.
Wine List
While I’d typically pair Italian food with Italian wine, my next three weeks of travel is devoted to exploring the wine regions of southern Western Australia. In tribute to the area’s character and the provenance of the ingredients at Garum, I choose three expressive Western Australian wines to complement our meal—and take a brief detour to Marche, Italy, for one classic match.
Also of note, glassware is taken seriously here. Riedel stemware elevates the experience from simply sipping to something far more ceremonial. But more on the wine later—it’s time to eat!
Garum Perth Menu July 2025
Pane
You can tell a lot about a restaurant by its bread course, and Garum Perth screams “We’re serious about flavour.” Crunchy-crusted, spongy-middled slices of warm Roman sourdough kick off the experience. They sit alongside moretum, a ricotta cheese spread (locally made, of course), seasoned with coriander and parsley—its roots trace back to ancient Roman kitchens. Bold and rustic, it sets the tone with historical flair and culinary confidence. Olive oil sits innocently at the base of the moretum, but it’s worthy of its own applause. Our server, Callan—ever-so-patient with my need for the finer points—shares that it’s a local beauty. Silver Lakes in Perth Hills produces this delicious cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil. We’re already looking it up online to see where we can purchase it.
Antipasti
Crudo (A$34) presents delicately smoked kingfish layered over caponata—Sicily’s signature sweet-sour eggplant relish, and a garnish of dill oil that adds a bright, herbal lift. It’s a thoughtful balance of texture and temperature that echoes both Nordic precision and Mediterranean warmth.
Voyager Estate’s ‘GARUM’ Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (A$15), crafted exclusively for the restaurant, is a clever nod to place and partnership. It’s a classic Margaret River expression—crisp and aromatic, with lifted notes of lemongrass, gooseberry and white florals, underpinned by a chalky minerality. The estate, one of the region’s founding five, is certified organic and known for precision in both viticulture and style. A lively companion to the kingfish crudo, it mirrors the citrusy freshness. It balances the silky richness of the fish with finesse.
Pasta
Paccheri (A$35) features thick, ridged tubes of pasta cradling a slow-braised pork shoulder ragù. This dish, seldom seen in Malaysia, offers a deeply savoury, southern Italian richness—comforting yet composed, with sauce that clings like a well-worn anecdote. You must order this!
We detour to Italy, but it’s hardly a betrayal—Italian with Italian simply makes sense. This rustic Rosso Piceno from Monte Schiavo (A$17) brings together Montepulciano’s brooding fruit and Sangiovese’s savoury snap. Organically farmed vines from the rolling hills of Marche deliver a wine full of red cherry, wild herbs, and soft spice, with just enough grit to cut through the richness of the pork ragù. A little wild, a little polished—like Nonna in her good pearls.
Secondi
Pesce (A$52) pairs a thick fillet of goldband snapper from Shark Bay with clams, crushed potato, and briny capers, all gently steamed in Marisa prosecco. The result is a dish that’s elegant and saline—like a coastal breeze captured on a plate.
From one of the region’s oldest and most respected producers, Vasse Felix’s Classic Dry Rosé (A$15) is as elegant as it is easy to love. Crafted primarily from Shiraz, it’s awash with strawberry, watermelon rind and a touch of savoury spice, finishing dry with a flicker of flint. It’s beautifully chilled, utterly unpretentious, and right at home beside the delicate goldband snapper from Shark Bay. Think of it as sunshine in a glass.
Bistecca
Filleto di Manzo (A$62) serves a 250g Harvey beef fillet (Harvey has been producing beef for over a century in WA!), seared and paired with pickled mushrooms and a silken parsnip purée. The alchemy of earthy sweetness and gentle acidity keeps the richness in check, proving restraint can be just as satisfying as decadence.
A younger sibling to Vasse Felix’ iconic Cabernet, ‘Filius’ (A$15)—Latin for ‘son’—is anything but juvenile. Structured yet supple, it offers cassis, bay leaf, cocoa and a thread of graphite typical of Margaret River Cab. With estate-grown fruit and a nod to Bordeaux elegance, this wine brings just the right tannic grip to anchor each bite of beef. Plush, polished, and pitch-perfect.
Contorni
Fagiolini (A$16) unites crisp green beans, basil pesto, pine nuts and stracciatella—the luscious, creamy centre of burrata—finished with a touch of lemon zest. It’s a supporting act that very nearly steals the show.
Insalata (A$16) is pared-back perfection: radicchio, cos and witlof dressed simply with oregano, grainy mustard and olive oil. Understated, yes—but never dull. It’s a palate refresher that speaks volumes in a whisper.
Dessert
Pastiera Napoletana (A$22) is a slice of tradition, made to Chef’s mother’s recipe and steeped in Neapolitan nostalgia. The classic pastry is said to be crafted with exactly seven ingredients, each one symbolic, with seven strips of pastry lattice woven across the top in tribute. It’s a proper pie with a proper crust—golden, sturdy, and just sweet enough. The filling is a comforting blend of ricotta and grain, lightly scented with citrus. A scoop of mandarin orange sorbet on the side adds a refreshing lift, and I suspect a whisper of peel in the mix that keeps it bright and balanced. It’s homely in spirit, but refined in execution.
Italian Restaurant Perth – Garum – Review
Garum frames a dialogue between past and present, where Roman tradition meets Western Australian provenance without pretence. Whether it’s the quiet confidence of a well-poured rosé or the satisfying simplicity of a perfectly dressed leaf of lettuce, each element is considered, balanced, and never tries too hard. It’s Italian, certainly—but interpreted through a local lens that favours clarity over nostalgia, and storytelling over showmanship. A very Perth kind of classic.
Reasons to visit Garum Perth: casual, good-looking ambience; friendly service; don’t miss the paccheri with pork ragu.
Garum Perth Italian Restaurant
Hibernian Place, 480 Hay Street,
Perth, WA, 6000, Australia
Link to Garum Italian Restaurant Perth on Google Maps
+61 (08) 6559 1870
garum.com.au
garum@westin.com
Garum Perth Hours
Monday to Friday – 6 am – 10 am & 4.30 pm – 10 pm
Saturday – 7 am – 11 am & 4.30 pm – 10 pm
Sunday – 7 am – 11 am
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