Canvass Bistro & Bar, Old Malaya KL

Canvass KL – Old Malaya

Words: Alison Christ
Photos: Rich Callahan

* Canvass has moved. Find the new location here.

I first went to Old Malaya in KL over three years ago and I fell in love with that little nook and the architecture of the colonial-style buildings. It’s been a mystery to me why people don’t pack out this hidden gem. Hopefully, now we will see a revival of the area, with the introduction of Canvass to Old Malaya, I will certainly be going back often.

Canvass KL

Downstairs Canvass KL has a warm vibe with cool music playing and an intriguing display of goodies on the bar. Being a home fermenter myself, I am immediately drawn to the 20 or so jars of ferments on the counter. Beautifully aromatic jars full of local limes, preserved lemons, garlic, onions, white beets, ginger, pumpkin, brines and syrups, all of which we get to experience in the food and cocktails we are about to feast upon. Before we start our journey we go on a quick tour upstairs; it’s beautiful, spacious and full of light coming in from the glass ceilings. We are encouraged to check back up here later… as there is an edible garden in the making.

Canvass KL – Sustainable Hedonism

Chef and partner Nikolaj Lenz from Copenhagen has teamed up with mixologist M.I. Rony. The two are working together to promote what they call “sustainable hedonism,” which I translate to mean finding pleasure in a way that brings health and sustainability to mother earth. Nik continues by explaining that it’s a form of sustainability that allows a little flexibility that fits what the market needs. For example, he realizes beef is environmentally unfriendly but it’s what his clients want so he will source the best and most eco-friendly version he can find.

Another term Chef Nik uses that you won’t find in the Urban Dictionary is “enlightened hospitality.” Don’t say one thing and do another, focus on quality and affordability, create an environment where guests don’t have to worry about anything and can have complete trust in you. I’ve been in hospitality since I was a young teen and I’ve always had these feelings. When Nik says these words out loud, I really feel connected and understand why we do what we do.

Canvass KL Menu

We work our way through the menu alternating between cocktails and food. For the sake of the review and everyone’s time, we don’t pair every dish with every cocktail. Although the cocktails are certainly geared for food pairings and I would make sure to ask Rony for his recommendations.

Zero Waste

A lot of the ingredients from the fermented foods are used in the cocktails. Like brines for instance (which can also be amazing in ‘dirty’ martinis). Not only is this a great way to enhance flavours, and connect the food with the drinks, it also helps eliminate food waste. Eliminating food waste is a huge part of sustainability and we humans are really bad at it. If you want to be a food waste-free restaurant you must use everything.

Sidebar: according to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, the global volume of edible food wastage is estimated at 1.3 billion tonnes. I can’t even comprehend what that looks like nor do I want to. Every little thing done to fix this global issue makes me happy. Chef Nik and Rony are doing a stunning job and the end products are pretty damn delicious.

You will see in my menu descriptions only a handful of ingredients; Chef Nik has some secrets in there. Good secrets, like micro vegetables, naturally formed probiotics, ancient grains and other organic ingredients. His theory is twofold; first, he wants to come out to the table and talk to you about what’s on your plate and explain the process. Secondly, it’s about sustainability and biodiversity of the foods he’s serving. We need a bigger variety in the foods we eat to promote health for our bodies and the planet. I think in society we are used to the term “hidden ingredients” to mean chemicals and bad things. When it comes to dining at Canvass, we can relax and trust them to serve us only good stuff.

Biodiversity in What You Eat

Chef also brings up another interesting point – we all generally eat about 20 or so of the same things over and over again every day. You think about it for a minute list the things you eat every day, I did and he is right, I’m about 25ish. This week I bought a bunch of different veggies I normally don’t eat. Biodiversity is a fascinating topic, sadly one I am not an expert to write about in detail, but if you’re curious you can go to Canvass KL to learn more.

Clearly, sustainability, biodiversity, organic farming and sourcing locally are topics Monica and I are very passionate about. I had to get my two cents in here before we can start talking about the good stuff – the food and cocktails! Thanks for listening.

Cocktails

We start with a cocktail, Linea Verde (RM38), made with gin, fresh basil, fermented limes, cardamom-infused syrup, dehydrated beetroot, marigold leaf and eggwhite foam (yolk goes to the kitchen). I love this drink and it’s finished before the first course arrives. In an effort for zero waste, all of Rony’s garnishes are edible. Think about a mojito – how much waste goes into the bin after one of those?!

Ferment Menu

The first food dish arrives, Cured Salmon, Apple & Beet Tartare with Sweet Mustard Sauce (RM24). Everything is cut into tiny perfect cubes and is texturally pleasing. The flavour is delicate, naturally salty, and sweet, and dare I say yummy.

Not a Jam (RM38), a vodka-based yuzu and passionfruit cocktail with chard pumpkin syrup, asam boi, date puree and pink peppercorn is the next thing that hits the table. It’s delicious with fresh acidity and a balanced sweetness; it’s fun to nibble on the tiny pink peppercorns that give us a perfumery spicy zip on our palates.

Danish Tradition

Now we get to see what it’s like at a home-cooked meal in Copenhagen with the Danish Style “Fiske Frikadeller,” Pan-Seared Barramundi “Fish Cakes” with Parsley Sauce and Remoulade (RM31). Fiske Frikadeller is one of the most traditional Scandinavian dishes. I could envision a lovely meal around the fire at home with family as we enjoy the refreshing herbaceous parsley sauce and the simple yet delicious fish cake.

Next, we hit the healthiest version of raw beef I’ve ever had at Canvass Bistro & Bar. Beef Tartare of Australian Angus with Slow Cooked Free Range Egg Yolk, Salsa Verde and Pickles (RM28). The dish has at least five fermented and pickled veggies instead of the traditional capers. I am enjoying the contrast in constancy of the raw beef with the pickled veggies and the overall good feeling of the dish.

We try one more beef dish the Free-range Angus Beef Cheek with “Toasted” Mash Potatoes, Demi-Glace and Pickled Beetroot (RM56). The beef is so tender we need no teeth for chewing. The beetroot gives a natural sweetness to the dish. I want to go on about how amazing the beef cheek is, but I must be honest that the mash potatoes steal the show. We ask for an extra side dish of the mash, and while not on the menu we have confirmation that you too can do the same thing. Monica and I highly recommend you do not skip this very important step; Side of “Toasted” Mash, please! Quite possibly the best mash potatoes I’ve ever had. Toasted, you might be asking? Exactly, it’s a bit technical and better left for Chef Nik to explain to you in person, but the skins are involved and of course some fermentations and don’t worry about the low cal butter and the heavy cream.

Sustainable Cocktails

Rony is using an extract from the potato skins in the cocktail Brown Butter Old Fashion (RM42). It might sound strange – I agree – but it works. This old fashion has burnt sweet potato syrup, spiced rum, home-made brown butter, bitters and tastes like Christmas in a glass! Rony says he is thinking about the weather when designing drinks. He must have Christmas on his mind.

Dessert

Moving onto dessert, we are very happy to continue down a “feel good” path with these two desserts. We still get all the pleasure you normally do from dessert but without the guilt. Compote of Apple and Sweet Fermented Turnip (RM18) is layered with yoghurt and sour cream topped with caramelized crispy oats and buckwheat. It’s like eating dessert on a picnic in a beautiful meadow.

Next, we try the Baked Chocolate Mousse (RM 19) with caramel, thickened cream, and red fruit liquorice coulis (my tasting notes say epic)! Think flourless chocolate cake, moist and creamy, with a vibrant acidity from the red fruits, thickened cream to seal the deal and you will lick the plate! Actually (names unmentioned) someone at our table did lick the plate.

For our grand finale, we order two last cocktails; I go for the Margarita (RM32). Monica is delighted with the Canary Sour (RM32). The Bourbon, apple and turnip syrup puts a smile on her face reflecting the drink’s lack of sweetness and savoury flavours. I enjoy the margarita, even though there is added sugar, it’s the only drink on the menu using simple syrup. Sometimes a classic is a classic. There is a twist of course, like the no-salt-rim. Instead, Rony uses lacto-cucumber water, and a little Sichuan pepper on top gives it a nice kick. For anyone not familiar with fermenting, lacto-fermentation means fermenting with salt, and with that comes good microbes (not to be confused with lactose, there’s nothing to do with cows in here).

Canvass KL Review

As a rap, we compliment Chef Nik and Rony on a job well done and Chef says, “Of course these things take a skill level but most of all it takes a passion.” It makes me happy to hear that and to say we enjoyed everything we put into our mouths at Canvass.

PS: If you noticed, I didn’t say a word about wine, as Canvass is a food and cocktail-inspired restaurant, however, check back soon to find out about the selection of organic and biodynamic wines that will soon join the menu (maybe even an organic wine dinner in the near future).

Reasons to visit Canvass KL: sustainable hedonism, enlightened hospitality, biodiversity, fermentation, delicious and affordable food and cocktails, lovely venue.

Canvass KL
2 Lorong Raja Chulan, Old Malaya
50250 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+603 2022 0968
[email protected]
www.canvasskl.com

Canvass KL Opening Hours
Tuesday – Saturday 4 pm – 10 pm

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