Maria’s Signature SURIA KLCC, Steakhouse KL

Maria’s Signature SURIA KLCC

Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Rich Callahan

Steak lovers will be glad to know that SURIA KLCC finally has a steakhouse! Those who love a good steak, particularly one that is affordable and served straight up without too much fuss, will probably be familiar with the Maria’s brand. Maria’s SteakCafe has been a much-adored name for over two decades. Seeing the happenings of 2020 as an opportunity rather than a hindrance, the family made a bold move acquiring a magnificent lot in SURIA KLCC and creating the first Maria’s Signature.

Keeping the focus on quality meat served without the frills, the family-run business upped the game with a classy yet cosy setting and the addition of a cocktail bar to create the flagship Maria’s Signature.

On the first floor of SURIA KLCC, Maria’s Signature has a pretty view of the fountain and park. There’s a lovely patio area perfect for evenings and gifts a postcard-perfect view of the dancing fountain. Cool greys and dark timber (but not too much) make for a sophisticated scene while fun lighting fixtures soften the setting. The clever use of gentle curtains allows tables to be hemmed in providing semi-private dining.

Cocktails KLCC

The first thing you see when entering Maria’s Signature is the bar. And, it is well-deserving of the attention. Amanda Wan (ace Malaysian bartender just back after too many years overseas) created the cocktail menu and trained the staff. It sure elevates the family steakhouse and complements the title, Signature.

The cocktail list is a one-pager and designed to pair with food. The food here is excellent, but the cocktails are beautiful, and so well balanced I’d be happy just stopping in for a sip with a view. I try the Pompaloma (RM 40++) and the Violet Tonic (RM 36++). Both are representative of Malaysian flavours with local ingredients harmonising the liquor.

The first, Pompaloma uses pomelo (a nod to Ipoh, where Maria’s all began). A mix of pomelo and grapefruit juices with reposado tequila, agave syrup and lime juice, give the classic Paloma a local spin. Pomelo pulp with a hint of grenadine for a pop of colour adds texture to the top. It’s a wonderfully refreshing drink and perfect for day drinking.

In all truth, I only ordered the Violet Tonic (RM 36++) because I thought it would make a pretty photo and possibly appeal to a crowd who might appreciate something sweet and floral. As I sip the very last drops, I’m happy to be proven wrong and should’ve known better with Amanda designing the drinks. It turns out to be a fragrance bomb – with the aroma enticing the nose before it even reaches the lips. It’s not sweet. Instead, it’s bright and refreshing. Gin-infused with lavender and butterfly pea flowers, elderflower, pandan syrup, lime juice and tonic water is topped with dried rosebuds. Amanda describes it as an elevated gin and tonic – approachable and familiar but with a little local pizazz.

Maria’s Signature KLCC Menu

The menu at Maria’s Signature as you might expect is dominated by steak. There are a variety of comfort meals, however, that is not red meat, including poultry and seafood. Angeline Tan (daughter of Maria) tells that despite the location being more upmarket, the “recipes are still all mummy’s.”

Salads

Keeping it in the family, Angeline’s aunty contributed the recipe for our first dish at Maria’s Signature. Having spent some time in Japan, she brought back this combo as a warm reminder of her time overseas. Oriental Salad (RM 14) is a base of mixed greens, capsicum, tomatoes and cucumber. It’s topped with shitake mushrooms and bonito flakes and a tasty vinaigrette with sesame.

Poultry 

The Honey Mustard Chicken (RM 23++ or RM 18++ daily from 12 pm – 3 pm) is an alternative to steak and a value-for-money meal. The boneless drumstick is superbly moist and covered with brown gravy with a subtle hint of mustard. The side of sauteed vegetables is crisp and fresh. Lovely. There are no soggy carrots here.

Steak

Enough dithering. Maria’s Signature is all about the steak! So, time to get to the meat of the matter. “Naked of overwhelming sauces,” these steaks should be eaten in their “simplest form, no sauce, and medium done at most.” The chef seasons with salt, pepper and a sprinkling of herbs. They’re best accompanied by garden-fresh salads or vegetables (choose from the sides). High quality chilled cuts are imported from Australia, the USA and Japan and stored under controlled conditions to preserve their natural freshness. Steaks are grilled on the charbroiler, and I highly recommend allowing the chef to decide on the optimal doneness for each cut.

Quality and affordable steak are what Maria’s reputation was built on. Today we enjoy both a meal that won’t break the bank and also a cut for a special indulgence.

Japanese Miyazaki Wagyu A5 Striploin

One of the most premium steaks in this part of the world, and three-time “Wagyu Olympics” champion, the Miyazaki Wagyu A5 Striploin (RM 270 +/ 100 g) is ideal for those who don’t like to chew! Known as the highest quality beef in Japan, when cooked right, it melts in the mouth like butter leaving a thin coat of delicious, elegant fat lingering on the palate just as good wine would. If you wanted to show off, you could slice this steak with a spoon.

Australian Grass-fed Tenderloin

The wagyu truly is a wow – rich decadence in every bite – but I’m just as happy with the Australian Grass-fed Tenderloin (RM 69++, 180-200g) at a quarter of the price. It’s quite a different experience, but I find it equally enjoyable. This is a lean cut of meat, and as the cow was fed on its natural diet of grass, you find fullness and depth of flavour not common in grain-fed animals. It’s tender but takes a few more bites to chew and swallow. The encounter is prolonged, and I feel as if I’m getting value for money. Both steaks sport a fantastic char on the edges, which contrasts a lively pink middle. Honestly, you couldn’t dream of more perfectly cooked steaks.

Sides

There are a handful of sides to accompany the steak. We go with Creamed Spinach (RM 16++), Sauteed Vegetable (RM 15 ++) and Roast Potatoes (RM 10++). They’re all generous portions and feel like something your mum would make.

Wine

Amy Tan, sister of Angeline, is studying her Masters of Wine (impressive) and chose the wine list. It’s a compact compilation composed of well-chosen boutique labels with a good number sold by the glass. Of course, in a steakhouse, the focus will be red, and I find a lovely match in a Tempranillo from Rioja, Spain, Finca San Martin (RM 42++ glass, RM210+ bottle). It’s full-bodied and dry, with notes of berries and herbs in the nosing. A velvety texture stands out in the mouth with balanced acidity and elegant tannins. If staying longer, I might have easily ordered a bottle of this.

Dessert

Although I could make my way back to that cocktail list for dessert, Rich needs to finalise the meal with something sweet. All cakes are homemade, also mummy’s recipes and bring the restaurant back full-circle. When Maria’s first began over 20 years ago, it was a home kitchen and pastries, pies and cakes were the first items sold. While the current selection is limited, there are plans to bring these sweets back when high tea is introduced later in the year. I also hear that the original restaurant in Ipoh might be renamed Maria’s Heritage to honour the brand’s humble beginnings.

Rich picks Tiramisu (RM 18), and Moist Chocolate Cake (RM 18) served with vanilla ice cream to conclude. The secret touch to the tiramisu is rum-soaked lady’s fingers, and the choc cake comes warm, so the ice cream provides a cool contrast. As expected, they have a real homely feel to them. Rich gives them a nod of approval.

Reasons to visit Maria’s Signature: lovely first-floor location overlooking the KLCC fountain and park; perfectly cooked STEAK!; some excellent deals for the new year such as buy-one-free-one wagyu from January 9 to 15, 2021.

Maria’s Signature SURIA KLCC
Lot 157, First Floor
Suria KLCC Shopping Centre
Jalan Ampang, 50088, Kuala Lumpur
www.facebook.com/marias.steakcafe
+6 010-902 0386

Maria’s Signature KLCC Opening Hours
10am – 10pm daily

Opening Promotions
January 2 – 8, 2021: 30% off all normal-priced items
January 9 – 15, 2021: buy-one-free-one wagyu

Find more steak restaurants here and stay up to date with the happenings around Malaysia here and here.