ANJO, Modern Fine Dining, Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur

ANJO – Modern Fine Dining

Words: Han Sen Hau
Photos: Rich Callahan

Petaling Street has noticeably weathered through the worst a national lockdown could muster, with novel and snazzy dining concepts mushrooming in hidden nooks and artsy cul-de-sacs. 

One of the more recent additions to the exciting line-up is ANJO, an imposing and hard-to-miss fine dining restaurant just across Four Points by Sheraton Kuala Lumpur. An ambitious project considering the location, which resident sommelier Jessica concurs, though therein lies the thrill of a challenge to elevate the ultimate dining experience at the heart of the capital’s most diverse dining scene. 

ANJO, Modern Fine Dining

When you first walk into ANJO from the side street, you are immediately greeted with a wall of wine bottles with a conspicuous A-frame in the middle that looks like, you’ve guessed it, an entrance to the bar and lounge upstairs. To your left would be the main dining area, which could seat around 15 guests comfortably (reservations are a must), and on the other end, a private dining room. 

As we would be starting the night strong with cocktails, we slid the sliding doors open in the middle of the wine wall to discover what secrets the top floor contained. Walking up the stairs, I was grateful for my 5’4” height as I could stand perfectly erect and not bump my head on the low ceiling, so if you’re towering above 6 feet, you’ve been warned; especially if you’ve blazed through their entire cocktail menu and walking down the stairs. 

The gilded interior of ANJO continues upstairs, where the walls are black, and the trimmings are gold. Those familiar with ANJO’s origins in Johor would undoubtedly be transported back in time, as much of the brand’s visual identity has been retained and, quite possibly, refined for a Kuala Lumpur audience. Compared to the more formal setting downstairs, the top floor is a space for casual conversation, languid live performances, and captivating cocktails. 

ANJO Cocktails – Battle of the Sexes

After settling into our seats by the bar, sommelier Jessica then informed us we would be sampling two of ANJO’s signature drinks: the “feminine” One Night in Anjo (RM45) and the “masculine” Jack & Spice (RM45). Though we questioned the need for the gender dichotomy, Jessica insisted that the drinks’ flavour and presentation speak for themselves. 

I suppose we could empathise, as it’s easy to assume that the tropical-looking One Night in Anjo would coat the tongue with cloying sweetness, what with the dainty flower chosen to rest at the top. A quick sip proved that intuition right initially before that sweetness was quickly overtaken by a strong punch from the Captain Morgan Rum mixed into the concoction.

“It epitomises how a true lady is: a pretty facade that conceals a hidden strength,” quipped the sommelier. 

Perhaps, but what about her opponent, the smoky Jack & Spice looking like a suave Death Incarnate? Let’s just say if eternal rest arrived in the form of this intoxicating potion of rum liqueur, juniper berries, osmanthus drips, toasted cinnamon, orange bitters, ginger beer, and of course, whiskey, we’d happily embrace death by draining the glass skull.

Alas, the night had only begun, and we still had dinner to attend to. 

It’s worth noting that the cocktail menu would be refreshed every two to three months, though popular options would be retained based on demand. Once the Chinese New Year festivities die down, ANJO will also regularly feature a cocktail of the month to entice bar-hoppers. 

ANJO Dinner Menu

Part of the excitement that comes with dining at ANJO is the live kitchen setting, where you get to see head chef, Chef Monday, prepare works of art on your plate. A native of Johor with a flair for dramatic plating, Chef Monday promised us an evening of sheer decadence, and we could only salivate in anticipation.

Dinner at ANJO comes strictly in three forms: its 8-course menu (RM550+), 10-course menu (RM790+), and vegetarian menu (RM550+). You can add on wine pairing for RM250+ for four glasses or RM350+ for six glasses. To keep you well informed, we’ve also listed the price you’d pay by glass if you’d like to select for yourself. For the purposes of this review, we were presented with the 10-course option; in other words, we arrived famished. Like its cocktail menu, the dinner menu at ANJO is refreshed regularly, so no two visits are ever alike, which seems like a personal challenge Chef Monday has set up for himself in order to push culinary boundaries.

As with any fine dining experience, the meal begins even before the first course is served. Ours came in the form of bread and butter.

Bread

There were three types we could choose from sweet bun, focaccia, and sourdough. The real treats, though, were the four types of Bordier butter that came with the bread: salted, porcini, truffle, and pesto. 

This seemingly harmless start to dinner was, in fact, a deadly trap. Not only had we been saving room in our bellies for a 10-course dinner, which meant guests from the other end of the table could probably hear our growling guts, we also had to resist the seductive temptations of sweet-smelling bread. 

Of course, we succumbed.

I nosedived for the fluffy focaccia, which went perfectly well with the pesto butter and the chewy sourdough that dazzled with porcini. The evening could have ended there, and we would have been absolutely satisfied, but that would make us horrible reviewers, so we moved on to the amuse bouche.

ANJO, Modern Fine Dining – Amuse Bouche

I took a picture of this, sent it to a close confidante, who only had this to say, “how does one even begin to eat this?” 

A sentiment, I admit, I shared. 

Every single element on the plate was deliberately placed and delicately arranged, even if they were purely decorative, so it felt like a crime to disrupt the presentation. The three, little hors d’oeuvres were an avocado roulade, a fish terrine, and a pork arancini. 

The avocado roulade was my favourite, and I wish I had more of it as the whole thing unravels then melts on the tongue. The fish terrine was a playful follow-up with its spicy and tart profile, while the pork arancini concluded with a delightful crunch that’s enhanced with a dollop of garlic aioli. 

Beef Tartare

Things started to get interesting from the second course onwards as each dish from then on was paired with a glass of wine. For the beef tartare, Jessica recommended the Bisol Bel Star Prosecco NV (RM68/glass), which was a bright and bubbly complement to the savoury dish, allowing us to truly appreciate the burst of umami from the meat and caviar. 

I had been a little wary of the beef tartare when I saw it on the menu as I had yet to, up until that point, savoured one that didn’t ruin my appetite for the rest of the evening. Thankfully, my reservations were assuaged by the fantastic Prosecco pairing and the indispensable quail egg, which bound the rich umami flavour of the Oscietre caviar together with the finely diced beef.

ANJO, Modern Fine Dining – Capellini

The third course arrived in the form of a capellini rolled atop lightly seared Hokkaido scallops and garnished with aromatic winter truffles. This was definitely something you’d smell before it even arrived at the table, as the superior aroma has this spellbinding effect that momentarily stops time. 

The angel hair pasta had a nice bite to it, which balances the buttery scallops soaked in truffle oil that only amplified the already powerful earthy flavours. Thus, the fruity Villa Antinori Bianco 2018 (RM42/glass) served with this was an excellent counter to the rich truffles. Sweeter than the preceding Prosecco, the light-bodied Trebbiano was absolutely necessary here to follow each mouthful.

Foie Gras

By the fourth course, we’ve arguably arrived at the climax (already?!) of rich flavours with the duck foie gras, served with ginger flower coulis and dark chocolate crumbs. Looking like a delightfully jiggly creme brûlée, the foie gras was browned beautifully at the top and would have been completely fine on its own. However, Chef Monday took it up a notch by combining it with the sweet ginger flower coulis and created depth with the dark chocolate crumbs, which was a brilliant contrast to the fatty liver.

Jessica then showed her hand by pairing the foie gras with a Domaine Gayda La Minuette Rosé 2019 (RM42/glass), an unconventionally savoury option, though understandably so, considering the sweet elements available already on the plate. 

Coral Trout

Item number five was a solid piece of coral trout that was paired, interestingly, with a red Fattoria Mantellassi Il Canneto 2019 (RM45/glass). The fish was thoroughly steamed, though not overcooked, and retained a tender bite that was complete with the crisp lotus root chips. A rather sudden departure from the rich flavours we were indulged with earlier, the trout was nonetheless a welcome flip back to familiar Asian flavours with its savoury profile, with much help from the Korean black beans.

The Italian Sangiovese recommended with the fish introduced a little spice to the overall experience, which enriched the subtle flavours of the trout. While we would normally dash for a white here, the glass of red earned its place next to the seafood, reminding us that there are always exceptions to the rule.

Palate Cleanser – ANJO, Modern Fine Dining

About two hours into dinner, we finally hit intermission with a potent palate cleanser: the simple and unassuming calamansi sorbet. While we adored most of the dishes prepared thus far, this was the one we appreciated the most, for it was akin to hitting the restart button on our appetites. 

It was the simplicity of the humble calamansi that brought about an eye-wincingly ticklish diversion from the extravagant ingredients we’ve been served with thus far. The mighty citrus triumphed as a palate cleanser and prepared us well for the remaining two heavy mains.

Rougie Duck Breast

Sourced from the same farm as the earlier foie gras, the duck breast was served with finely sliced beetroot and endives. While the breast tantalised with its thin layer of fat and crisp skin, it paired a little too well with the beetroot, which masked much of the duck’s flavour. 

The incredibly floral Les Allees de Cantemerle 2011 (RM45/glass) paired with this was able to extract some of the sweeter essence of the meat, so this was a plus in our books. However, it was also difficult to imagine the duck with anything else as the combination proved essential. 

Sher Wagyu Striploin

While the foie gras left an indelible impression, the pièce de résistance was the final Sher Wagyu striploin served medium. Like most of its predecessors, the beautiful cut of beef was carefully paired with truffles for the added aroma, a flaky broccoli-quinoa-togarashi combo, and a creamy broccoli puree. 

I thoroughly enjoyed each mouthful with a little bit of everything dancing on the tongue, but it was the broccoli-quinoa-togarashi flakes that added much excitement with the added spice and crunch. It can be a foil to the puree, which was a subtler accompaniment; even so, the contrasting mouthfeel from the flakes against the tender, juicy cut of Wagyu was too intoxicating to pass.

The final red of the night to go with the striploin was an intensely fruity Gaba do Xil Mencia 2017 by Telmo Rodriguez (RM45/glass). The unoaked Mencia would prove to be a nostalgic tipple for many Malaysians with its hawthorn notes, which stimulates the nose and palate. 

ANJO, Modern Fine Dining – Dessert

The final two dessert courses were mercifully light, though not lacking in sumptuousness. Immediately following the intense Wagyu striploin was Textures of Chocolate, a delectable selection of Manjari, Guanaja, and Jivara dark chocolates. The mousse deserves particular mention, and it goes splendidly well with the chocolate crumbs and a bite of raspberry. 

A trio of petit fours composed of a lemon tart, hazelnut sorbet, and financier with blackberry compote wrapped up dinner. Chef Monday’s painstakingly meticulous design for his menu was evident right till the end, as the flavours remain playfully complex, jolting the senses. 

Many of the dishes’ success can also be attributed to the masterful sommelier Jessica, whose intimate knowledge of Europe’s finest wines helped to elevate the overall dining experience. With her at the helm of ANJO’s cellar, we can confidently look forward to savouring more exciting varieties in addition to the already stellar collection. 

Reasons to visit ANJO: No two visits to the restaurant will ever be the same; while we didn’t spend a lot of time upstairs, a quick survey highlighted the lounge to be a comfortable escape; the lavish setting and menu are perfect for commemorating special occasions.

ANJO
Jalan Petaling, City Centre,
50000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+6 019 977 1010
www.facebook.com/anjomalaysia

ANJO Opening Hours
Fine Dining
Session 1: 6.00pm – 8.00pm
Session 2: 8.30pm – 10.30pm
Hidden Bar
5pm – 12am

Find more restaurants for special occasions here, and stay up-to-date on KL’s food and beverage scene here and here.