Copaa Desa Sri Hartamas: Modern Cuisine & Bar

Copaa Desa Sri Hartamas

Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Rich Callahan

There is a little corner of Sri Hartamas that will forever be Jon Chew.

The former fitness coach-turned-foodie entrepreneur put his blood, sweat, and probably a few tears into Copaa, a trendy new establishment overlooking the plaza. Jon and his business partner were low on budget but big on belief that they could take matters into their own hands – quite literally.

Copaa Desa Sri Hartamas

“We even built the bar”, Jon says casually, although you can sense a hint of pride. Their handiwork is everywhere, from the distressed texture on the concrete walls adding an understated modernist touch, to the art deco-style brown sofas in the private room. He got a good deal on the sofas, too. And it all works very well together; it’s contemporary and cosy at the same time, helped by earthy copper and bronze tones adding a touch of colour to the concrete.

Copaa is Jon’s second F&B venture, after Soul Kitchen Hartamas, and there are several things he wants to put right. He’s got an inspiring story and an even more impressive attitude, and his passion for his latest project is plain to see.

Jon has no formal training as a chef – and in this context, it’s a compliment. The menu at Copaa is packed with comfort food favourites, like lamb chops and ramen, but with a signature modern twist. Jon and his team have gone back to basics, but re-built them just a little differently – and a lot more interesting.

And while he taught himself to cook, he took the liberty of learning about wine, too. Not only are ingredients thoughtfully paired at Copaa, but you can also bet there’s a brilliant wine to accompany each dish. If you’re a fan of red, the house pour is a 21-year-old Shiraz. That paints a picture that’ll save me a thousand words.

In fact, ‘copa’ is Spanish for ‘cup’, and the extra ‘a’ in Copaa is a playful riff on going that little bit further, doing that little bit more; same same, but different, as they say.

For Starters, Salads & Snacks

After the tour and the story about the sofas, we settle down for the first course. First up is the Pucuk Paku Salad (RM28), which Jon created during lockdown. And what a discovery it was. The clever addition of pucuk paku, a wild Asian fern, gives the dish a crisp and satisfying dimension. The asparagus-like texture makes the salad feel more filling than the usual garden variety, and the local flavour follows from the first bite; toasted coconut flakes, bunga kantan (torch ginger) vinaigrette, and mandarin orange. It’s fresh, interesting, and a great start to the meal.

The Heirloom Tomato Salad (RM28) is also a little more curious than your average salad, thanks to the eye-catching purple shades of the open-pollinated tomatoes from Cameron Highlands. Fresh pesto and little morsels of feta cheese complete the colour palette, and the yuzu vinaigrette complements the dish with a clever citrus note.

Jon proudly brings out the first wine at this point, a Mâcon-Pierreclos Lieu Secret. This lovely white wine from Bourgogne is the ideal companion to our starters, bringing out the refreshing – almost tangy – details in each dish.

His timing is perfect. The Lieu Secret goes especially well with the Cold Ramen (RM32) – our next dish, and first proper introduction to what Jon is creating at Copaa (although the pucuk paku was an early hint). Usually, when you order ramen, you’re seeking a hearty, warming bowl of comforting, noodle-y goodness. When you order one at Copaa, it arrives chilled. It’s almost colder than the wine.

It feels a little odd until you take the first slurp and realise what Jon has – ingeniously – pulled off. It’s just as comforting, if not as warming, as ‘regular’ ramen, thanks to the plump noodles and 5-hour-boiled chicken broth. Shaoxing wine – traditional Chinese rice wine – adds an extra Eastern flavour to this Japanese favourite. The ikura salmon caviar is an elegant touch, and the Lieu Secret lifts this dish wonderfully.

The Chicken Dumplings (RM28) put another classy spin on comfort food, with homemade sweet ponzu – a classic Japanese sauce – and masago contrasting the umami soy. Another tasty sauce blesses the Aubergine Miso (RM25), although the special chilli padi miso sauce is the hero atop this veggie-friendly starter.

The Chicken Lobak (RM28) perfectly captures what Copaa is doing with its menu. But this isn’t Jon’s creation – in fact, it’s his mother’s. After all, Mum knows best! Mrs Chew’s homemade recipe features chicken loin marinated in five-spice powder and wrapped in crispy tofu skin. Again, it’s a familiar feeling but with a unique twist to the taste that takes it to the next level. The hint of chestnut helps. It’s a great bar bite, but we resist polishing off the plate because we’re not done yet. 

Main Course: Imported Lamb Gets A Local Flavour

The Lamb Rack (RM98) is one of the best-sellers so far, and we’re not surprised. The premium imported Australian lamb is, of course, given the customary Copaa treatment, marinated and accompanied by interesting local flavours. The meat soaks in their signature soy for 24 hours, and is served with the chilli padi miso and carrot puree.

There’s a lot going on, but it’s not overwhelming; the char siew touch nicely brings out the lamb’s gamey flavour, and the house’s favourite five-spice powder adds sweet and salty dimensions. It’s so tender you could cut it with a spoon – but I’m saving my spoon for dessert, so I use my knife instead.

And, on cue, John uncorks the next bottle of wine: the 21-year-old house red, an Australian Shiraz from the Limestone Coast. The wine goes very well with the lamb – maybe they recognise each other from back home? – and each highlights the nuances in the other.

As a final savoury surprise, John proudly presents an off-menu special – the Foie Gras Satay (no price listed). Eating an indulgent French delicacy from a cheap satay stick sums up Copaa’s ethos pretty neatly.

Decadent Dessert

We go for the Black Forest Parfait (RM28) for our final course and are happy with our choice. The rich, velvety chocolate is a nice balance to the various crispy and spicy textures we’ve tried so far. The tangy fruit coulis adds a nice and sharp edge to this dessert. Jon generously tops up our glasses with more Shiraz, which washes everything down rather nicely.

Copaa Review Desa Sri Hartamas

It strikes us that Copaa is just as good for a date night as a group meal. There’s plenty on the menu to share and compare, and you’ll have fun reminiscing about old childhood memories, trying to place those tastes you can’t immediately remember – but you know you’ll never forget.

The food preparation is skilled, and the presentation is stunning. You feel like you’re getting a fine dining experience, but with all the familiar favourites. Old meets new, simple meets stylish; it’s like four-dimensional fusion food.

Reasons to visit Copaa in Desa Sri Hartamas: upscale ambience, Asian-inspired menu with unique twists, interesting ingredients, excellent wine selection with thoughtful food pairing

Copaa Hartamas
No 38-1, Jalan 24/70A, Desa Sri Hartamas,
50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+60 17-272 8971

Copaa KL Opening Hours
Monday-Saturday: 5 pm –1 am
Sunday: Closed

Stay up-to-date on KL’s food and beverage scene here and here.