Indian Tapas & Cocktails TTDI

The Fire Grill Indian Tapas & Cocktails TTDI

Words: Tim Jay
Photos: Rich Callahan

The Fire Grill in TTDI has launched a new small plates menu aptly called “Shankar’s Mid-Week: Indian Tapas and Cocktails.” This special menu is only available on Wednesdays from 5pm – 11pm. It bounces back and forth from North India to South, with a heavy focus on food from the state of Tamil Nadu. It’s about family favourites being recreated for a larger audience. The recipes are classic, while the cocktails are twisted. All the drink names refer to different places in India, turning well-known cocktails into a trip to the spice market.

Indian Tapas & Cocktails TTDI

The evening started with Belgian-style fries. The lightly spiced masala was the perfect seasoning for the thick, Hand-cut Masala Fries (v) (RM19). A soft pillowy potato dipped in aoli is a perfect snack.

I love cashews! I think the Muntri Masala (v) (RM19), cashew nuts lightly dusted in masala, is an ode to Lebuh Muntri in Georgetown. Seasoned nuts with a cocktail? A great way to awaken the palate.

All India Nimbu Paani (RM40) was a strangely refreshing cocktail. The aromatics of the cumin seed took me by surprise and did not overpower the gin, lime and rock salt. This lemonade is certainly intended for adults!

I have had fried mushrooms many times in my life. But the tempura-battered enoki in the Kaalan Poriyal (v) (RM23) with curry aoli was something new. Not that I am an expert, but it looked like fried alien fingers. It was certainly crisp, and light and the enoki maintained a nice snap in each bite. I think a squeeze of lemon or a pinch of salt would bump up the flavour.

With another play on words, the next highball took inspiration from Northern India. The cumin water, or in this instance, the Bombay Jal Jeera (RM40), is meant to startle the palate. Vodka, tamarind juice, jal jeera masala and soda create a lively cocktail.

The green chilli, garlic and ginger made my mouth sing while eating the Urulai Pattani Samosas (v) (RM23). The mint chutney mixed with yogurt was velvety like sour cream, and I appreciated how thin the wrapper was. It was a shame that I had to share.

Then, a classic South Indian dish of fried lady fingers, yoghurt, chillies and coconut paste arrived. The Vendikai Patchadi (v) (RM23) was creamy and rich. It was interesting to learn that patchadi is from the south and raita is from the north. I enjoyed it immensely. However, everyone at the table wanted bread or some carbs with it. We suggested ordering a side of naan!

The capital city of the Indian state of Tamil Nadu makes an appearance on the menu. Mixed with warm spices, the Madras Margarita (RM40) is more sweet than sour. A colourful cocktail made with Tequila, cinnamon, cloves, orange and lime. The sweetness of the margarita is complementary to the next small plate.

The prawn gravy served on bread like bruschetta is value for money. The piquant Yeral Thokku (RM25) is a semi-dry mix of sauteed prawns, tomatoes, masala and curry leaves. It’s a bit more complex than a sambal belacan and only for those who have the acquired taste for pungent recipes.

String hoppers from Tamil Nadu, are served in two different ways. The Idiyappam Kolli Curry (RM25) is yellow chicken curry, and the Idiyappam Kothamalli Sambar (v) (RM25) is a vegetarian curry with coriander and dhal. Our table preferred succulent chicken, thick gravy and springy rice noodles.

Tava Meen (RM25) is masala spiked, grilled mackerel served with fish masala aoli. The lime brightens the masala and balances the oiliness of the fish.

Next, there was a bourbon highball mixed with ginger beer, cardamom and lime named after the cultural capital of Tamil Nadu. The Thanjavur Bourbon (RM40) is strong and fragrant. The ginger beer and cardamom pair well, and this is easy to enjoy on a hot Malaysian day.

Now, the flavours really started to build up. Mutton meatballs called Kola Urundai (RM25) are incredibly soft and tender. The tamarind chutney dipping sauce is ketchup for grown-ups. Everything together reminds me of my favourite meatloaf.

The Bangalore Fizz (RM40) is a full-flavour highball. Gin, cardamom, rosemary syrup and soda. I felt the cardamom was a bit overwhelming on its own, but when paired with the food, it’s more of an extension of the experience.

My favourite small plate of the day was Aadu Eraichi Varuval (RM33). The masala packs a bit more heat in this dry lamb curry. The ginger garlic paste shines, and the garam masala and chillies leave a lingering tickle. There is a level of smokiness to the dish as well that made me ask if it was cooked in a clay pot. The answer is no. But I won’t share Chef Shankar‘s secret.

For a great pairing, the bitterness of the Campari in the Tamil Negroni (RM40), spiced infused gin, and Martini Rosso heightens the varuval curry. This is a nice play on one of my favourite drinks. The additional aromatics soften the cocktail.

Grilled sea prawns are dry rubbed with masala in the Yeral Masala Poori (RM33) and are smothered in a rich gravy of tamarind, tomato and turmeric. The whole wheat poori is crisp on the edges and soaks up the gravy in the middle. The spice level is medium and finishes quickly.

The Sikkim Mai Tai (RM40) is as big on flavour as the mountains are tall in the region. The third tallest mountain in the world can be found there. And in your glass, the discovery is spiced rum, five-spice syrup and bitters. The feeling is earthy and warming from the spices. Have this with the yeral masala poori.

Ginger is fascinating as an ingredient. The effects can range from spicy hot to cool and refreshing. Vodka, ginger syrup and cardamom in a champagne flute create Old Delhi Ginger (RM40). It could be enjoyed as a palate cleanser at the end of the meal.

Summing Up

Nothing on Shankar’s Mid-Week: Indian Tapas and Cocktails menu is overly spicy. It is an experience that everyone can enjoy. The subtle nuances and flavours become more intense on the menu, moving from top to bottom. To make the experience simpler, I would suggest ordering food and drinks from similar locations on the menu. This should ensure that the lighter items stay together as well as the more robust recipes are paired.

Reasons to try Shankar’s Mid-Week Indian Tapas and Cocktails: a mini food exploration of the North and South of India in small plate format; unique and thought-provoking cocktails modelled after the food and Shankar’s love and enthusiasm for the concept – it literally fills the air.

The Fire Grill
24 Jalan Datuk Sulaiman,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
+60 3-7492-2197 or +60 18-355-0642

Indian Tapas & Cocktails Hours
Wednesdays: 5 pm – 11 pm

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