Mono Restaurant, Central, Hong Kong

Mono Restaurant – Central, Hong Kong

Monica Tindall (unwatermarked photos supplied, interior shots by Mitch Geng

It brings me much joy to dine again with Chef Ricardo Chaneton in Hong Kong. Pre-pandemic, I knew the young Venezuelan chef leading the crew at one of HK’s most respected restaurants, Michelin-starred Petrus. However, on this visit, I have a seat at Mono, his own fine-dining restaurant located in Central, Hong Kong, shining a spotlight on the wonders of South American cuisine.

Chef Ricardo Chaneton honed his craft at some of the world’s best restaurants, including three Michelin-starred Quique Dacosta, Spain and Mirazur, France. However, he is now collecting accolades of his own. Just over a year ago, Mono became the first Venezuelan chef-owned restaurant to earn a Michelin star and also takes a place (41) in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023.

Mono Hong Kong

The restaurant is located on the fifth floor of the China Building in Central, and the entrance is somewhat discreet, adding to the sense of exclusivity and intimacy. Once inside, we are greeted by the restaurant’s warm and welcoming staff, who have glasses of Krug Champagne in our hands in minutes (Chaneton is one of only a few chef Krug ambassadors in the world).

The dining room at Mono restaurant is relatively small, with only 20 seats, giving it an intimate and exclusive feel. The design is sleek and comfortable, allowing the food to take centrestage. However, it’s the chef’s counter (10 seats) where real gourmets take roost. Diners have an unobstructed view of the chefs as they prepare each dish with meticulous care. And, as part of the experience, the raw ingredients are presented with each course, educating and inspiring guests at the same time.

Mono Restaurant Hong Kong Menu

As for the food itself, Mono restaurant’s menu is creative and innovative, featuring flavours and ingredients from South America. Chef Chaneton’s approach to cooking is grounded in classic French technique with a deep respect for Latin American culinary heritage. He adds a modern and playful twist to each dish, creating an unforgettable dining experience.

An additional standout feature of Mono restaurant is its focus on sustainability. Chef Chaneton sources ingredients locally whenever possible and works closely with farmers and fishermen to ensure that the restaurant’s environmental impact is minimized. Furthermore, they have partnered with ZeroFoodprint, a non-profit organisation dedicated to fighting climate change. A carbon tax of 1% is included in bills, which goes towards assisting farmers restore soil biology through regenerative farming.

Journey Menu – Mono HK

Mono restaurant offers a Soul Menu (HK$888) and Journey Menu (HK$1488) with the option of a Three-glass Wine Pairing (HK$620) or Five-glass Wine Pairing (HK$850). A 10% service charge and 1% ZFPA contribution applies to all prices.

Mexican Blue Corn Infladita

The meal begins with an eye-catching Mexican blue corn puff enveloping Hokkaido amaebi (sweet shrimp) and avocado. The pastry is superbly thin and offers a delicate crunch around the moist filling. Chayote (choko), nopal cactus (prickly pear) and habanero chillies furnish more bite to the texture and a smooth thread of spice.

Peruvian Causa Limeña

Causa is one of my favourite Peruvian dishes, so I’m delighted to see it up next. Coming in deconstructed form, we can sample each piece separately before blending them all together. What I find so attractive is the lime tang in the potato. Chef’s version includes smoked Ossetra caviar, finely chopped egg salad, Kalamata olives, and Peru’s famous aji Amarillo (yellow pepper with a unique taste and medium heat).

Nagasaki Medai Ceviche

Another Peruvian fave, ceviche, is the following course. Strips of medai (translated to big-eye fish or Pacific barrelfish) from Nagasaki are marinated in leche de tigre (lime, onion, garlic, ginger, coriander, chilli, salt, pepper) and cucumber. I haven’t heard of cucumber commonly used in this style of marinade, but it gives a highly enticing freshness. Furthermore, mashua (a unique Peruvian root vegetable) comes in raw form and cooked in a lime gel. It’s not only intriguing to taste but fantastic to have the opportunity to study the twirly cone-shaped tuber while the dish is explained by our knowledgeable server, Rupa.

This course also brings an exciting wine from Argentina, Colomé, Altura Máxima, Sauvignon Blanc 2021. Grown in the highest vineyards in the world (3111 metres above sea level), the harsh conditions cause the grapes to develop a thick, dark skin and the lengthy ripening period lead to a unique, intense character in the wine. For those who have tired of the typical profile of Sauvignon Blanc from the south, this fresh expression might renew your interest.

Bolivian Kiwicha Sourdough or Arepas (!) – Mono Restaurant

Friends we’ve talked to about dining at Mono restaurant all mention the amazing Bolivian kiwicha sourdough, which we don’t try this visit. Instead, we get an even more special treat – arepas! The Venezuelan unleavened thick corn bread is the love of the nation (and all who’ve lived there). Here they’re served with Eva Aguilera 100% Arbequina olive oil and curry butter. We’re most excited about the arepas, but the olive oil is extraordinarily good too – only 600 litres a year are produced, and only three restaurants in this part of the world have the privilege of stocking it (here, one in Japan and one in Singapore).

Imperial Langoustine

With over 5000 restaurant articles under my pen, finding dishes that surprise my palate is challenging. However, Chaneton’s imperial langoustine with fresh Ecuadorian cacao certainly stimulates a few neurons. The crustacean comes from the Faroe Islands in Denmark and has been pan-seared on one side and garnished with lemon zest and cocoa dust. It’s presented with different textures of cacao – tea, dust, fruit, nibs and a silky, creamy sauce. As the server tells of separating the cascara from the beans in her lunch break, the pride and passion of the team is obvious. They’re part of something special, and this dish shows their investment.

Brittany Monkfish

It’s time for general manager, Mauricio Rodriguez, to show his skill with the mortar and pestle. He sets to work crushing, grinding and torching nearly four handfuls of ingredients for the mojo for the Brittany monkfish. The fish has a mild, sweet flavour is often likened to lobster for its firmer, springy texture. The sauce has a consistent texture (hard to master) and creamy mouthfeel. The accompanying zucchini and confit onion complement the dish with a change in texture and freshness.

Argentinian Ribeye

Another iconic Venezuelan recipe (particularly well-known in the capital of Caracas) is presented with asado negro (dark roast beef). Argentinian ribeye has been dry-aged for three days, marinated and finished off on the charcoal grill. Every family has their own beloved recipe for the sweet, dark sauce on a base of non-refined sugar and beef jus. Chef Chaneton includes pink peppercorns and chives and adds his signature with a swirl of green chimichurri sauce around the plate. Morel mushroom stuffed with blood sausage (morcilla) provides a little extra richness.

Bodega Chacra ‘Barda’ Pinot Noir from Patagonia, Argentina, provides another exciting wine choice. I find the fruits more concentrated than the typical grape expression, with additional minerality and a little sandalwood in the finish. Biodynamic production respects the land and natural systems, allowing the character of the terroir to manifest in the glass. It’s a fantastic pick, one that I’ll keep my eye out for on menus in the future.

Pineapple & Coconut Cloud

Mate cocido (a milder version of yerba mate – a herb grown in South America similar to tea) cleanses our palates before dessert.

The pineapple and coconut cloud resembles a piña colada cocktail in profile, featuring the fresh flavours of pineapple marinated with cloves, cinnamon, and pineapple chips paired with coconut foam and sherbet. A delicious rum syrup (Nicaraguan Flor de Caña 7-year) keeps us spooning back for more.

Dulces – Mono Restaurant

The meal concludes with two petit dulces (sweets) – alfajor (caramelised stuffed shortbread rolled in coconut) and handmade chocolate truffles. They pair perfectly with the Latin tunes playing on chef Chaneton’s collection of old vinyl records, and the last words of conversation thoroughly expressing gratitude and satisfaction with the meal just devoured.

Mono Hong Kong Restaurant Review

Overall, Mono is a destination restaurant that offers a memorable dining experience celebrating and educating guests on the diverse ingredients, flavours and culinary traditions of South America. It’s a story of livelihoods, family, producers, and culture, interwoven and innovated on to create a distinctive style of cuisine. The food, service, and atmosphere are all top-notch, making it well worth the investment for those seeking a refined and elegant culinary experience in the heart of Hong Kong.

Reasons to visit Mono restaurant Hong Kong: a fresh take and inspiring introduction to the diversity of ingredients and flavours found in South American cuisine; chef’s counter experience where you can see the kitchen crew in action; well-curated wine list featuring some intriguing labels from South America; exceptional service.

Mono Restaurant
5/F, 18 On Lan Street
Central, Hong Kong
[email protected]
www.mono.hk
@MonoHKG @RChaneton @JIAGroup

Mono Restaurant Opening Hours
Tuesday to Saturday: 12 pm to 2.30 pm & 6 pm to 10 pm

Find more recommendations for gourmet travel to Hong Kong here, and stay up-to-date on the latest culinary happenings around Malaysia here and here.