THE ENCLAVE – The Silveri Hong Kong

THE ENCLAVE & THE PAVILION – The Silveri Hong Kong MGallery

Monica Tindall

Just because you’re staying near the airport in Hong Kong doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the city’s hot dining scene. Only five minutes from the international terminal, directly above Citygate Outlets, The Silveri Hong Kong M Gallery’s modern bistro, THE ENCLAVE, serves a contemporary menu in a comfortable and stylish setting. Furthermore, time your arrival for late afternoon, and you can kick your meal off with pre-dinner drinks accompanied by striking sunset views at THE PAVILION.

THE PAVILION – Sunset Bar Hong Kong

THE PAVILION is positioned to take full advantage of beautiful sunsets over the bay and layered hills beyond. The sun takes a direct dive behind the hills, leaving a golden reflection on the glittering water’s surface as the occasional boat breaks the sea’s glossy veneer. 

Sunset Aperitif begins at 3:30 pm daily and lasts generous four-and-a-half hours, with a selection of drinks at discounted prices. For me, Aperol Spritz ($68 sunset price, $98 regular price) is the drink of choice. Aperol’s bitter-sweet finish and prosecco’s effervescence scream summer and vacation. It’s an immediate relaxer and mood booster. The bartender’s version is a fantastic twist with a splash of Grand Marnier and a giant green olive accompanying the usual orange slice. The olive contributes a touch of savoury. Delicious!

Wines are particularly good-value, with their house pours all going for HK$48 (usually priced between HK$78 and $HK108). If we didn’t have a wine-paired meal ahead of us, we might be tempted to have another sundowner.

THE ENCLAVE Hong Kong

When you don’t know where to begin, set menus are a great introduction to a new restaurant. THE ENCLAVE Gourmet Experience comprises four courses and you can include wine pairing and coffee or tea for an additional sum. Chef Stephane Guillas, Director of Culinary, changes the menu regularly with the seasons and availability of ingredients. Recipes have a distinctively French foundation with bright flourishes of international influence enhancing rather than changing the outcome of dishes.

Bread and water are immediately on our table, along with our server Nicholas’s introduction to the menu. The bread box contains slices of sourdough, soft rolls, herb butter, sweet caramelised balsamic, and olive oil. We love the contrast of crunchy crust and spongey middle of the sourdough and slather it with the homemade butter.

Amuse Bouche

The amuse bouche of yellow tail ceviche on a thin crispy toast garnished with dill is just enough to entice our palates as we discuss tonight’s wine pairing with food and beverage manager Clement.

I am a proponent for more rosé to be quaffed in this region. It’s versatile, pairs well with complex Asian flavours, and is an elixir for good times on a warm afternoon. Clement (from Provence) agrees it’s an excellent choice; hence, our evening begins with a glass of By.Ott Rosé, 2020, Cotes de Provence, France. It’s a graceful light pink in the glass with aromas of summer peaches and a hint of fresh tropical passionfruit. It fills the mouth with crispness, mirroring the fruity bouquet on the palate and concludes with a thread of spice.

Grass-fed Victorian Beef Tartare

The first course of Grass-fed Victorian Beef Tartare is already superbly fresh but further brightened with Dijon mustard honey and capers. Additionally, bone marrow and quail egg add to the recipe’s richness, while potato crisps provide polarity in texture.

Canadian Scallops – THE ENCLAVE

A trio of Roasted Canadian Scallops demonstrate the harmony of international flavours at work here. The golden-seared scallop meat is livened with spiced carrot, coconut and pomelo and topped with tom yam foam (basil, coconut cream), fried shallots and a drizzling of green olive oil. These are lovely with the last drops of the rosé but also combine well with the next glass of Mahi, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021 from Marlborough, New Zealand.

The team behind Mahi aim to respect the uniqueness of each vineyard, handpick the fruit and whole-cluster press, reducing time on skins. A small percentage of this Sauvignon Blanc spent time in French barriques, enough to give some weight to the wine but not enough to be present on the nose. Aromas of citrus and some tropical scents follow through to an elegant structure, a creamy mid-palate and a lengthy finish. It makes a fine mate to our main course of fish.

Atlantic Line-caught Sea Bass

Once again, international recipes are given local appeal in the Atlantic Line-caught Sea Bass with Hong Kong’s famous XO sauce. Made with chopped, dried seafood cooked with chilli, peppers, onion and garlic, the sauce has a distinctive taste. Sweet, salty, smoky and rich in umami, only a little is needed to add complexity to a dish. The plate is supported by tomato and fennel lentils. The fish is soft, moist, and flaky, and the overall combination is delicious.

THE ENCLAVE – Sweet Conclusion 

Clement returns just before dessert with a question, “You like Bailey’s, right?” that he has already answered for us as he fills two shots glasses from a label-free bottle. Their homemade Baileys is a blend of whiskey, cream, milk and chocolate. Its sweet creaminess could do as dessert all on its own. However, we have a set menu to showcase, so skipping the sweets wouldn’t be fair.

Originally created to tribute the marquise de Sévigné, Chocolate Marquise is a classic French dessert made with dark chocolate, butter, eggs, cream and sugar. Chef Stephane’s recipe is velvety smooth and complemented by hazelnuts, cherries and an Old Fashioned cocktail reduction (a collaboration between the bar and the kitchen). It leaves the rich taste of premium chocolate in our mouths, an excellent ending to a wonderful meal.

Reasons to visit THE ENCLAVE & THE PAVILION Hong Kong: pre-dinner sundowners at THE PAVILION with awesome views and discounted prices on drinks; knowledgeable, professional staff; solid set menus highlighting the best from the kitchen.

THE ENCLAVE & THE PAVILION
The Silveri Hong Kong-MGallery
9th floor, 16 Tat Tung Road, Tung Chung (also accessed by Citygate Outlets on the 3rd & 7th floors)
Hong Kong, China
https://thesilveri-hongkong.com
3602 8989
[email protected]

THE ENCLAVE Opening Hours
Lunch: 12 – 3 pm
Dinner: 6 – 11 pm

THE PAVILION Opening Hours
Daily 3:30 pm – 1 am

@thesilverihongkong
@ghcasia

Find more recommendations for gourmet travel to Hong Kong here, and stay up-to-date on the latest culinary happenings around Malaysia here and here.