Dinner with David Zilber, Fermentation Lab Noma

Dinner with David Zilber, Noma Head of Fermentation – Hom Phuket 

Monica Tindall

We dined with David Zilber!

Hosted in collaboration with hom Phuket’s Chef de Cuisine, Ricardo Nunes, and featuring the expertise of none other than David Zilber, the head of Noma’s Fermentation Lab, the evening unfolded as a celebration of fermentation and local Thai ingredients.

hom, a new addition to Phuket’s vibrant restaurant scene in the InterContinental Phuket Resort, stands as a beacon of sustainable and flavourful dining, especially thanks to the use of fermentation. The restaurant’s commitment to collaborating with local farms not only enriches recipes but also champions environmental responsibility and community support. Housed in a stunning white temple-like building, it was a flawless location for the two to join forces. 

Chef Ricardo Nunes, renowned for his inventive fusion of ancient techniques and fermentation, has carved a niche on the island. His impressive career, influenced by Michelin-starred experiences, found a new dimension during the pandemic. With more time for slow cooking and experimentation, Nunes broadened and deepened his toolkit and now sees that passion through at hom.

Adding global flair, David Zilber, the maestro behind Noma’s Fermentation Lab, shared the kitchen for four nights this past November. Renowned for his culinary discoveries shared on Instagram and co-authoring “The Noma Guide to Fermentation,” Zilber took centre stage at hom. With Thai ingredients as his muse, he shared his explorations with diners fortunate enough to snag a seat. The dinner was not just a meal; it was an education about the expansive world of culinary possibilities.

hom Phuket

Our dining experience at hom began at InterContinental Phuket Resort’s lobby. We were greeted by our host and guided through a walkway bordered with walls covered with 1000s of tiny mirrors. A light mist cooled the route and created a magical play with the light and reflections. Further, we strolled past reflective ponds and ended at the stairway to the dazzling Sawan Pavilion, a refined white sanctuary inspired by Buddhist cosmology. We took the angel’s staircase and were met with an equally striking interior featuring high, pyramid-shaped ceilings, milky tones, silver accents, and a Himmapan motif.

David Zilber X hom Phuket

David Zilber is world-renowned for his work with Noma and his precision in the fermentation lab. With a mindset of constant exploration and a thirst for knowledge, he liberally shares his learnings and wonderings. Considered one of the global masters on the subject, he says that there was no prior plan; he “just fell into it.” When he found a position at Noma, that’s where they placed him, and he just grew with the job. It turned out that with his love of science, it was a very happy marriage.

A Global Trend

Fermentation has experienced a resurgence in popularity in recent years. This revival is not merely a trend but a deep-rooted appreciation for the intricate science and artistry behind the process, a rediscovery of age-old traditions that have shaped cuisines across cultures and continents.

The allure of fermentation lies in its ability to transform humble ingredients into complex triumphs, changing flavour and texture in the process. From the tangy zest of sourdough bread to the umami of kimchi, fermented foods offer complexity and depth beyond their fresh counterparts. 

Fermentation also holds benefits for human health. It introduces diverse beneficial bacteria and probiotics into the gut microbiome. These tiny creatures contribute to a balanced gut flora, promoting digestive health, boosting immunity, and enhancing nutrient absorption.

Fermentation also serves as a powerful tool for food preservation, extending the shelf life of fresh produce and reducing food waste. The acidic environment inhibits the growth of spoilage-causing microorganisms, and the process encourages the utilisation of parts of an ingredient that might otherwise be discarded, such as the peel. 

Moreover, fermentation transcends its practical applications, serving as a guardian of culinary traditions. Each fermented food carries the essence of its cultural heritage, embodying the wisdom and ingenuity of our ancestors. So, while David “fell into” the position, it turned out to be a pretty darn significant role that has influenced chefs and home cooks worldwide.

Hom Phuket X David Zilber Menu

Sea Snail Dashi

The meal began with Sea Snail Dashi presented in an eye-catching pink and white shell. The shell held trochus sea snail dashi, seaweed, and several glistening drops of snake fruit oil. Designed to be drank directly from the shell, it felt like an initiation test we might not pass. The broth was trapped within the shell’s spiral, requiring patience, finesse, and a certain flair for swirling to fully extract. The accompanying De Sousa, Chemins des Terroirs Extra Brut, France NV, a bubbly with a light body and refreshing acidity, proved an eloquent and delicate pairing.

Eel Flatbread

This dish featured a base of torch ginger flatbread, providing a fresh floral note foundation. An emulsion of horseshoe crab roe atop the flatbread imparted a rich and briny flavour. Slices of salt-and-sugar-pickled eel added a contrasting sweetness and tanginess. At the same time, the preserved watermelon rind mirrored the crunch of the base, and bee pollen lent a touch of sweetness and floral notes. A pleasant burst of acidity lingered on the palate, complementing the creamy mousse of Champagne.

Sandwich

The third course, a far-from-ordinary “sandwich”, unfolded as a tartine crafted from frog. The crispy frog skin cleverly took on the role of bread, topped with a layer of vegetables, including okra leaf, watercress, sage, and fenugreek, all coated in a delicate fenugreek emulsion. The combination of textures and flavours was intriguing, but it wasn’t quite to our taste. However, the accompanying pineapple hot sauce got full marks, adding a burst of sweetness and heat and vibrancy to the dish. Peter Jakob Kühn’s Quartz Trocken from Germany, a 2021 dry-style Riesling, counterbalanced the sweet creaminess of the bite, elevating the overall taste experience.

Cha-om Omelet

The Cha-om Omelet offered a nostalgic return to simplicity, featuring a local Thai-style omelette without the fiery kick (may we have some more of that pineapple hot sauce, please?). The fluffy eggs were complemented by tender acacia (cha-om) leaves, house-made fish garum, and a medley of fresh market vegetables (ulam). Once again, the wine worked to make a good dish even better. Nicely done, Sommelier Ko!

Crab

The crab dish arrived with a touch of theatrics, the shell covering the bowl, its eyes seemingly fixed on us. Lifting the shell revealed sweet blue swimmer crab meat in a rich broth thickened with the shells and infused with the subtle warmth of red curry shio koji. A glass of 2021 Albariño, Zarate, Balado from Rias Baixes, Spain, allowed the crab’s delicate character to shine through with the classic profile of sea breeze, cut grass, and minerality in the wine.

Flounder

The grilled flounder, prepared over an open fire to infuse the taste of charcoal into the fish, was artfully paired with fresh herbs, deep-fried okra leaves, and a zesty ginger sauce. A rich beurre blanc added a layer of indulgence. The wine mate, a 2018 German Pinot Noir, Enderle & Moll, Liaison, revealed crushed berries, earthy undertones, and mineral notes. The herbal elements in the wine mirrored those on the fish, while its acidity skillfully cut through the richness of the beurre blanc.

Wild Boar Spread

The aromas of the wild boar spread tickled our noses as it was delivered. Presented in two distinct styles, the dish showcased the transformation achieved through different cooking techniques. In one preparation, sticky rice cradled succulent wild boar ribs, slow-cooked in garlic and fermented to a tasty tanginess. The second iteration featured thinly sliced loin slices, lightly rendered with fat, akin to a delicate steak. Adjuncting the robust boar, the oyster sauce imparted a subtle sweetness, enhanced by a touch of yeast oil. A plate of pickles was also provided to add to taste – pineapple, siam tulip, watermelon rind, and the elusive rambai, a southern Thai delicacy resembling miniature, juicy berries. The 2017 Claus Preisinger Blaufränkisch from Buhl, Austria, proved to be an ideal pairing for the gamey flavours. Its robust body stood well alongside the dish’s intensity, while its earthy notes mirrored the wild boar’s intrinsic character.

Black Banana Pudding

David’s first kitchen job at a fine-dining Asian restaurant sparked his passion for bold flavours. One of his favourite dishes was yellow Thai rice, and this black banana pudding is a tribute to his early experiences. It’s a base of black rice pudding infused with the smokiness of caramelised black bananas. A tangy pickled banana flower broke the sweetness, while a creamy rice koji butter sauce added a layer of savoury goodness. The presentation looked unassuming, but once we scooped in, the stark contrast between the jet-black pudding and the delicate white foam hinted at the surprising flavours beneath. Crafted with premium rice cultivated in a cooler climate, Miinokotobuki Junmai, a drier sake from Fukuoka, imparts a refreshing touch of acidity that harmonises beautifully with the dessert’s sweetness.

Fruit Platter

The finale of chef David Zilber’s degustation menu was a refreshing fruit platter. The trio of fruits left the palate cleansed and revitalised without feeling weighed down. A tangy kiwi granita awakened the senses, while the subtly sweet rose apple slices provided a natural palate cleanser. The star of the platter, however, is the longkong fruit. Described by Zilber as having “translucent sweet and sour flesh scented with a mild air of a 90’s perfume,” the longkong is segmented like orange and has the texture of lychee. It makes a naturally refreshing conclusion.

Reasons to dine at hom, InterContinental Phuket Resort: striking setting; a celebration of local ingredients; great for those curious about fermentation and its culinary benefits; excellent wine pairings and detailed service; a rare chance to dine with global culinary figures such as David Zilber.

hom Restaurant, InterContinental Phuket Resort
333 Moo 3, Kamala, Kathu,
83150 Phuket, Thailand
+66 96 640 4526
[email protected]

hom Restaurant Opening Hours
Tuesday – Saturday: 6:30pm – midnight

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