Pyro – Damansara Kim – Woodfire & BBQ

Pyro – Damansara Kim, Woodfire & BBQ Restaurant

Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Rich Callahan

Pyro is a very, very cool restaurant.

I know, I know; once you describe something as “cool”, it’s no longer cool.

But I defy you to walk into this place – all stylish, sleek and industrial-chic – and not think those exact words. I couldn’t help saying them out loud.

Pyro is a wood grill concept restaurant in Damansara Kim. As its name suggests, fire-based cooking – both on open grills and the centrepiece wood-fired oven – is at the heart of the menu.

It’s omakase-style, tapas-inspired, a la carte dining, with a long bar with counter seating stretching the length of the space to give you a front-row seat to the fiery action. There are a couple of small tables along the back wall, but really, you want a good view of the grill.

Pyro has serious pedigree, with Head Chef Louis fanning the flames. His culinary journey has taken him all over Europe, including high-end restaurants in Spain and the Netherlands, before a stint at the Michelin-starred Burnt Ends – one of Asia’s finest.

His burning passion has finally brought him back to Malaysia, and we should all be very grateful. Pyro even opened on Malaysia Day 2023, in patriotic duty to elevate the quality of the local culinary scene.

The wood grill is Australian. The mangrove wood is Malaysian. The high-quality ingredients come from all over the world, from French oysters to Australian beef to New Zealand lamb, and there are interesting international influences throughout the menu.

Pyro Menu – Starters

First up, Oyster in Fire Ember with House Special Sauce (RM28). Immediately, we know we’re in for a treat based on the presentation alone: two big oyster shells perch on smooth pebbles, enveloped in a dry ice mist. See? Very cool.

These taste as good as they look; the special sauce (romesco and chilli) hits the roof of your mouth with a pleasant and not-too-spicy warmth before the juicy oyster (grilled with lime juice) comes into play to temper the heat. A great start.

The Steak Tartare & Caviar (RM30) is as decadent and delicious as it sounds. (If you’re a meat-eater, anyway.) It’s a delightfully rich, fatty cut of Australian beef spread on a thick piece of sourdough bread fried in more beef fat and topped with succulent, salty, quality caviar. One of those “close your eyes and savour the flavour” little morsels.

The Cured Yellowtail & Caviar (RM30) is a lovely light and refreshing contrast to the beef, but no less tasty, with zesty lemon and tangy capers. We recommend getting both and comparing notes.

East meets West in the Embered Elysium Egg (RM30); more French caviar topping a local smoked quail’s egg, full of rich texture and flavour.

We head further west to the Caribbean with the Pimento Chicken Skewer (RM30), boneless chicken wings with a Jamaican all-spice rub. These are excellent; the chicken is grilled to perfection, and the seasoning – not too fiery or spicy – is just right.

The Grilled Squid Skewer Furikake (RM20) is another delightful contrast. The fresh and springy squid has exactly the right taste and texture, and the furikake seasoning is an interesting and very welcome touch.

Fans of seafood will equally appreciate the Seaside Dip & Cracker (RM18), Pyro’s version of taramasalata, a crispy rice cracker topped with a cured fish roe and sourdough crumb mixture and finished with a well-seasoned mayonnaise.

We’re conscious we haven’t even started on the mains yet, but Louis is keen for us to try the Tomato Bruschetta (RM18). We are right to take heed: fresh, juicy, skin-on Cameron Highlands tomatoes cooked in the wood oven and served with garlic on crunchy sourdough bread? It’s so good. I don’t mind if we don’t have room for dessert.

Actually, it’s one more warm-up before the main event. Brinjal & Fermented Soybeans Mayo (RM20) may sound a little curious, but that makes it all the more rewarding. Local eggplant is perfectly deep-fried, with the batter thick but not too heavy, and finished with a generous dusting of black pepper seasoning to add sharpness and woodiness. The miso aioli dip offers a comforting contrast. If you want to get more vegetables into your diet, forget steamed broccoli and treat yourself to this. (Don’t come after me about the calories.)

Main Menu

Our first main course is the Grilled Fish and Homemade Chilli Sauce (RM70). Our fish is a local Golden Pomfret, swimming (sorry) in a chilli cream sauce. I don’t need words to describe this one, only letters – mmm, mmm, mmmmmm. The sauce is robust and rich and a perfect complement to the sweet, succulent, flaky fish.

I’ve been eyeing up our next course on the menu for a while, and when it arrives, it’s love at first bite. The Mayura Signature Striploin MB9 (RM2/1g) brings all of Chef Louis’ expertise and ‘Pyro-technics’ (not sorry) to the fore. This premium wagyu cut is absolutely exceptional: tender and pink in the middle, with the slightest crust to add bite and flavour without overpowering the incredible texture. Steak is always a highlight of my YumList reviews; this one is a highlight of my month.

We’ve been washing this down with some great wine, too. Pyro has a decent selection of red and white vintages – and even some zero-alcohol wines for the designated driver or recovering weekend warrior.

Wine List

We have a bottle of Grant Burge 5th Generation Cabernet Merlot 2021 from South Australia: a deep, smooth and elegant red with aromas of blackcurrants, blackberries, and plum, with dark fruits staying on the palate with hints of chocolate and coffee. Needless to say, it goes incredibly red with roasted meat.

There are many more tempting options on the main course menu – including a 35-Day Dry Aged Mayura Signature (RM3.50/2g), which I’m wistfully wondering about, and a very luxurious-sounding Lobster Tail & Smoked Mornay (RM220) – but it’s only fitting we give the sweet treats our full attention, too.

Pyro Dessert Menu

Did you know that Fruit Pavlova (RM35) is Australian and not from New Zealand? I just have to make that absolutely clear, and I promise it has nothing to do with my insistent Australian dining companion making it absolutely clear to me. (OK, Monica? I did what you asked; please invite me to another review.)

Regardless of its Antipodean origins, Pyro’s version is awesome. The baked meringue is the perfect texture – always the sign of a competent kitchen team – and the fresh fruit is well-portioned, topped with roasted almonds and mint leaves to round off the fulsome flavour profile. If you’re looking for something more refreshing than rich for your dessert, this is a good shout.

For a final flourish – with more dry ice – the Grizzly (RM25) appears. No, we have no idea why it’s called that either, but ignorance is bliss. This is Pyro’s proprietary take on a mini Magnum, with homemade Milo ice cream in a decadent chocolate-and-chopped-almond coating. We finish this excellent meal on a dreamy high.

Pyro Review

Pyro offers an exciting blend of classic and creative, international and inventive, ‘simple’ ingredients (as far as Chef Louis is concerned) expertly prepared. It’s stylish, not snobbish, and all very trendy, right down to the charcoal slates on which the starter dishes are served.

Of course, anything flame-grilled or oven-roasted is the highlight of the menu – but even the desserts and side dishes speak to a level of culinary experience and expression that is rare to see. (Not least in this part of town.)

Call me a pyromaniac, ‘cos I love this place. (I’ll see myself out.)

Reasons to visit Pyro Damansara Kim: outstanding and interesting menu with well-balanced vegetarian and protein options; clever use of quality ingredients; an exciting and engaging experience in a subtle-but-stylish set-up with a front-row seat to the action; great for date nights and small groups; friendly and attentive service, with a warm welcome and the personal touch from the head chef; VIP rooms for 4 or 6 pax (can be combined into 1 for 10).

Pyro – Grill Restaurant Damansara Kim
44, Jalan SS 20/10, Damansara Kim
47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia
+6010-365 1353
@pyro.damansara

Pyro Damansara Kim Opening Hours
Thursday to Tuesday: 6-11pm
Wednesdays: closed

Find more steak restaurants in Kuala Lumpur here and stay up to date with the happenings around Malaysia here and here.