Tucker & Co. - The Exchange TRX

Tucker & Co. – Deli Restaurant, The Exchange TRX

Words: Nichole Ong
Photos: Han Sen Hau

The latest brainchild of legendary wine importer and restaurateur Wong Yin How, Tucker & Co. combines the strengths of several endeavours into one – a deli restaurant with an unprecedented selection of wine by the glass and carafe (Mon says it’s the best in the country), excellent baked goods, house-roasted coffee, and recipes from the Bertha oven. The name Tucker comes from the Australian slang word for food, and Co. represents all the elements coming together at this new outlet.

Tucker & Co. The Exchange TRX Kuala Lumpur — Tucker & Co. – Deli Restaurant

Tucker & Co. – The Exchange TRX

If you’ve been to The Exchange TRX since its recent opening, you know just how big this place is – one wrong turn, and you end up in a forest. Tucker and Co. is on the Premium Dining Terrace towards the back of the first floor. Once you’re in the area, it’s hard to miss sitting in the middle of the floor with entrances on both sides. A window display of freshly baked goods and treats leads into an elegant wood, salmon and gold interior. A particular highlight is the Veuve Clicquot private room, decked out in the signature yellow of the Champagne and providing an intimate location for private groups.

Champagne by the Glass

Tucker & Co. has partnered with Champagne House Veuve Clicquot, which has an intriguing 250-year-old story. Veuve Clicquot’s status in the industry is almost mythical – a small company made famous by the widow (veuve, in French) of a textile maker’s son at the end of the Napoleonic wars. Widow Clicquot smuggled her best Champagne into Russia, predicting the celebrating royal family would fall for its exquisiteness. She launched herself into success by establishing her company as the preferred drink for royals and the upper class. Now Malaysia can access this legendary taste, as the bar uses the Coravin system to allow Champagne to be served by the glass. Tucker & Co. recommends Veuve Clicquot Brut NV (RM 80 glass) paired with their Slipper Lobster Roll (more on that soon).

Tucker & Co.’s Extraordinary Wine List

Tucker & Co. offers an impressive 25 (!) wines by the glass and carafe. It is likely Malaysia’s most extensive by-the-glass wine list, surpassing even large hotels, which generally cap at eight or ten. This is made possible by Yin How’s years of expertise and the Coravin system, the best wine preservation technique that allows the wine to be extracted without removing or damaging the cork. With such technology, diners can enjoy premium wine by the glass (prices ranging from RM35 to RM165) without committing to purchasing an entire bottle.

Tucker & Co. Deli Restaurant The Exchange TRX Kuala Lumpur — Wine List

Best wine-by-the-glass menu in Malaysia — The Coravin System Allows for Premium Pours

While tempted by those 25 options, we sensibly continued sipping Champagne for most of the meal, switching to red for our steak. Hailing from a renowned figure in French winemaking, the Jean-Louis Chave Offerus Saint Joseph 2021 (RM 82/glass, RM205/carafe) presented classic Syrah aromas. Its entry onto the palate is both velvety and lively, evolving into a vibrant yet elegant spiciness. The tannic framework balances suppleness and firmness, proving an excellent match for our ribeye.

Appetisers

The Bone Marrow with Caramelised Onions and Sourdough Toast (RM 78) is an excellent starter, presenting soft and well-seasoned bone marrow served inside the bone. This matched wonderfully with the freshly baked sourdough toast, and the caramelised onions added a welcome depth of flavour.

Deli Restaurant KL — Bone Marrow – Tucker & Co.

Succulent and juicy, the Grilled Octopus Leg with Egg Créme and Pimenton (RM 38) was another satisfying appetiser, as the octopus was tender and synergised well with the richness of the egg creme. There was also a nice amount of spice, adding a smokey flavour, while the baked potatoes were well-cooked and seasoned.

Head Chef Billy Phuah shared two upcoming menu items, Cecina (Italian dried beef) Croquettes and his take on Taiwanese Fried Chicken. The croquettes use a bechamel base for more creaminess instead of the traditional mashed potato, making each bite rich and creamy. A base of marinara sauce supplied a soft acidity counteracting the richness. The Taiwanese fried chicken is tender with a crispy, savoury tapioca starch coating fried with Thai basil and Chinese five spice, giving it more of a peppery flavour. Both are great tapas partnering well with casual drinks with friends.

Sandwiches & Rolls

As mentioned earlier, the Slipper Lobster Roll with Brioche and Paprika Mayonnaise (RM 58) is the ideal partner for a glass of Veuve Clicquot. The lobster is incredibly tender and sweet, with the paprika mayonnaise adding a touch of spice. The roll is made at Smith, which specialises in bread and coffee. As expected, the roll is soft and buttery, a great textural companion to the lobster. Additionally, the sauce with celery and pimenton contributes a welcome earthiness to the overall dish.

A deli classic, the House-Made Salted Beef Sandwich (RM 52) is loaded with thick slices of beef expertly cured in-house (Mon says her mum would approve). Mustard and sauerkraut play with the richness of the meat. This is one of the best The Yum List team has tried around town.

Steak

The Tinkerman’s restaurants are the only ones in Malaysia that utilise the Bertha oven, flown in from the UK. Known for its quick, even cooking precision, moisture and flavour are retained. We had the Devesa Argentinian Ribeye (RM 150), Bertha oven-cooked medium-rare, partnered with red wine beef reduction. Devesa sources the finest cattle breeds from the Argentinean Pampas, resulting in beef that is both tender and tasty. The dish comes with satisfying, crunchy, fat fries that look and taste great. We also recommend having the steak with a side of Wagyu Tallow Donabe (RM 35), Japanese rice cooked in wagyu beef fat. The taste of this rice is simply unmatched, amplified by the explosion of savouriness and crispiness in the fried wagyu croutons.

Deli Restaurant Menu

Don’t worry; it’s not all meat. The Mushroom Risotto with Olive Vegetables and Sautéed Mushrooms (RM 33) is an excellent vegetarian option. The rice is cooked to creamy deliciousness, leaving just a slight chew, and the sauteed mushrooms are tender and seasoned to bring out their natural earthiness. The pickled Chinese olive vegetables add a hint of acidity without overpowering the other flavours, making for a well-balanced and nourishing dish.

On the other side of the spectrum, the Sanchoku Wagyu Beef Burger (RM 58) is a picture of delectable indulgence, with a fat, tender beef patty, caramelised onions, jammy egg, truffled mayonnaise and the same thick fries as the steak. Each bite is full of comfort – a highly satisfying meal.

CNY 2024 at Tucker & Co.

My first Yee Sang (RM68) of the year started the Chinese New Year season with a hit, tasting Tucker & Co.’s interpretation of the dish. A popular tradition in Malaysia and Singapore, this salad is tossed by everyone at the table while speaking wishes for the new year to imbue each bite with prosperity. This iteration features torched shiro maguro, jellyfish, and flying fish roe among classics such as ginger, pomelo, peanuts and crackers, as well as twists such as torch ginger, daikon radish, and tamarind sauce rather than plum sauce. We much preferred the tamarind sauce, which was less sweet than the traditional plum sauce.

We were also lucky enough to try the Wood-Fired Pineapple Tarts (RM 128), which come in a box set of 16, ideal for Chinese New Year gifting. The tarts were just the right amount of crumbly, with sweet and zesty pineapple filling – a great take on a Chinese New Year favourite.

Dessert

The Sticky Date Pudding (RM 25) had me singing its praises long after the last bite. Warm and impossibly rich, it boasted the deep caramelised flavour of the dates, each mouthful a delight with the creamy ice cream melting on top. Chef’s suggestion to sprinkle on a touch of sea salt was pure genius, unleashing a divine salted caramel tang that transformed the entire experience. The crunchy pecans added a textural contrast, their nutty notes the perfect finishing touch to this irresistible masterpiece.

Coffee

Mon says Smith’s espresso blend is one of her favourites in the city. We tried it in a Cappuccino (RM 14) with dessert. The secret is a small portion of local Liberica beans alongside dominating Aribica, giving it a little additional oomph.

Tucker & Co. Review

Tucker & Co. has so much to offer, from its impressive wine list to its creative and classic menu items; there is something for everyone to enjoy. We recommend not leaving without trying a glass of Champagne with the lobster roll, the steak with a side of rice, the deli sandwiches, and the sticky date pudding.

Reasons to visit Tucker & Co.: 25 (!) wines by the glass and carafe; must try the lobster roll with a glass of bubbly; don’t miss the salted beef sandwich; be sure to enjoy a steak from the Bertha oven with a glass of premium red; and don’t leave without a serve of signature sticky date pudding.