Pícaro Kitchen Party KL – Spanish Tapas & Bar
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Peter Tan
Pícaro means cheeky or rogue in Spanish, and introducing Pícaro Kitchen Party to Kuala Lumpur brings a welcome injection of fun and vibrancy to the KL dining scene. Tapas, cocktails, shots, dancing chefs, ceiling-high flames and a DJ are all ingredients for a good time at this hidden location within Nam Kok Hotel.
But actually, there is no Nam Kok Hotel. Instead, it’s a fictional setting where neighbouring working girl Suzie Wong (KL’s famous cabaret bar) dreams of a better life. Pícaro has replaced the Robert Room, the masculine lounge and bar, once a tamer complement to the adjoining entertainment. Behind the glowing peepers of a life-size lucky-cat figurine is a reception where old skeleton keys hang on the wall behind it. The keys are the reservation and seat numbers for Pícaro. We part the red stage curtains at the back of the “lobby” to find stairs leading to imaginary rooms and a considerable stainless-steel counter ringing an open kitchen. We’re greeted with a chorus of “¡Hola!” and the fiesta begins!
Pícaro Kitchen Party KL – Spanish Tapas & Bar
A one-page placemat menu curated by Chef Su Kim Hock is easy to navigate. A familiar face on Malaysia’s exceptional dining scene, Chef Kim Hock founded Au Jardin, one of only two restaurants with a Michelin Star in Penang. Earlier this year, he opened Un Poco Loco, a Spanish tapas bar on the island, and we find many similarities in this menu.
Chef Pete Rayyan leads the Pícaro kitchen tonight. Originally from Miri, he has experience in Asian, Italian, and Japanese kitchens and is excited to now have Spanish with French techniques under his belt. We also meet “The Fire Guy,” Myo Aiman, who assures us we “are going to be surprised.” Our toes are already tapping to upbeat Latin tunes, and Rina, our server, makes sure the evening is well-lubricated with a seemingly bottomless pitcher of sangria.
Chef Selects – Kim Hock’s Choice – Pícaro KL Menu
Pícaro’s menu is easy to navigate with only two options Kim Hock’s Choice of six favourites or nine (6-course RM250, 9-course RM350). A vegetarian option is also available, and all menus are pork-free
Cold Tapas
Chef Kheng from Au Jardin Penang (the original Michelin-starred gangster) delivers the Duck Pate. The team are here for training and will continue to pop in, ensuring the menu is consistent with what guests expect from a chef with a Michelin-starred restaurant. The duck foie gras and confit duck with fresh sage are presented in a preservation tin typical of what’s found on the Spanish coast (the Spaniards are famous for canning seafood). On the side, there’s a tumble of corn tortilla chips and a pot of kelulut honey (from stingless bees). Scoop the pate on top of the Dorito, then drizzle it with honey. The pate has been lightly smoked with coriander seed adding an essence of spice that the honey softens.
Chef Arvin from Un Poco Loco Penang serves Grouper Ceviche in a tangy leche de tigre (citrus marinade) dotted with green coriander oil. It’s served in an elegant swirl on the plate with jalapeños, sour cream and red shallots. Upon delivery, lime granita is spooned over the top. It’s fresh and delicious and opens our palates with its bright acidity.
More guests arrive, and the choir of “¡Hola!” once more energises the room. The DJ beats intensify, and the kitchen crew break out with some choreographed hip swinging and shoulder shimmying. Red warning lights above the bar start flashing, a siren bellows, and someone is ringing La Campana (a bell). It’s time for shots! A tray of tequila shooters is passed around (RM99 to serve the entire restaurant), and before we know it, everyone is engaged in a roaring chant of “Yaaaaaaaam Seng!” (Cantonese cheers!).
Hot Tapas
From the hot tapas selection, Crab Croquetas are plump fried cylinders filled with crab in bechamel sauce, topped with more fresh crab and local caviar. Sriracha emulsion awaits on the side for a spicy addition when you’re ready to heat up the experience. Be careful! The liquid inside is hot!
Next is a star dish from Un Poco Loco, Pan-roasted Cauliflower. It’s a fantastic mix of roasted and pickled cauliflower sprinkled with pomegranate, balsamic vinegar, pickled cucumber, burnt butter and hazelnuts on a base of harissa puree. Sometimes I ask myself if we’re asking too much of cauliflower – steak, rice, pizza – but this is clearly not the case, as the veg excels in this dish.
Khai and Rina are shaking their booties in front of us as Myo is wiggling his hips behind the grill. The base is strong, and it beats through the crew’s veins. Next, a Backstreet Boys number plays – Bye Bye Bye – and there’s a choreographed performance to match.
The last of our hot tapas, Grilled Cuttlefish, is a palette of cream, green and red. The sea creature has been lightly grilled and sits beneath Pringles espuma. The cream is broken with dots of pico de gallo (tomato salsa), jalapeños, coriander oil and dried chillies.
Mains
Jerk Chicken Leg comes on two large skewers over corn ribs sprinkled with spiced biscuit crumble. The flesh has been glazed with harissa, onion, and yoghurt, and a squeeze of grilled half-lemon adds a moreish tang. The chicken is tender, and so is the corn. Que rico!
While many bites on the menu are similar to what is found in Un Poco Loco in Penang, the Crab Paella Roja is unique to Pícaro. The Spanish rice has been cooked in the pan in a rich swimmer crab stock. The edges are nicely caramelised, the stock infuses every grain, and there’s a good chew to the rice, scoring the perfect balance between tender and textured. Crab, sour cream dots, and fresh parsley garnish the surface.
Sweets
Those with a sweet tooth should be sure to save room for dessert. The Fried Milk cubes are lightly sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, with dulce de leche and soft meringue on the side for dipping. They’re light and fluffy, and the caramel and whipped egg white are decadent.
For a more grown-up dessert, the Orange & Black Olive Tartlet sees layers of orange olive custard ringed with vanilla sorbet in a crisp pastry shell. It’s topped with a velvety meringue seared with a piece of binchotan charcoal as a final display of showmanship.
Pícaro Drinks Menu & Prices
Most of the night, our thirsts have been quenched with Sangria (RM55 glass, or RM248 1 litre), but Pícaro has some tasty and eye-catching cocktails worth exploring, too.
It’s not a fiesta unless there’s tequila, so hello, Crimson Glow (RM52)! Tequila, orange liqueur, pomegranate juice and lime come in a bell glass smoked with secret woodchips. We like the smokey infusion in the booze. Approved.
Marianito (RM68) comes with a rosebud garnish covered by paper that is set alight as it’s handed over. The paper enflames and drops to the table, revealing the bud. Sweet vermouth, Campari, gin, and Angostura bitters are inside the glass – very similar to a Negroni – no wonder I love it.
A little caffeine goes a long way in keeping the party pumping, and Kopi Inferno (RM75) is ready to assist. This bold mix of brandy, coffee liqueur and cold brew coffee also comes with a fiery presentation. Smoked sea salt rims the glass, providing a savoury edge.
Pícaro Kitchen Party KL Review
Pícaro Kitchen Party is currently one of the most fun dining experiences you’ll find in KL. Food curated by a chef with a Michelin-starred restaurant, a cosy setting, pumping DJ music and an energetic kitchen crew are all part of the appeal. Reservations open November 1 – I highly recommend getting in now to get your spot.
Reasons to visit Pícaro Kitchen Party KL: a fun night out with loads of positive energy, entertainment and great food; excellent location for celebrations; our favourite orders were the Ceviche, Pan-roasted Cauliflower, Jerk Chicken Leg and Crab Paella Roja.
Pícaro Kitchen Party KL
Ground Floor, Nam Kok Hotel
Wisma Lim Foo Yong, 86, Jalan Raja Chulan
50200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Pícaro on Google Maps
@picaro.kl +6012 2401 011 [email protected]
www.namkokhotel.asia
Pícaro KL Opening Hours
From November 1, 2024: Wednesday to Sunday
1st Session: 6:00 – 8:30 pm
2nd Session: 9:00 – 11:30 pm
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