Fritz Sunday Lunch - Cherry Ricotta Tart & Fritz Rum Baba

Fritz Sunday Lunch – Troika Sky Dining 

Fritz Sunday Lunch – Troika Sky Dining

Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau 

While The Yum List is a recommendation site rather than a review website, I must confess a personal bias regarding Troika Sky Dining. You see, I was a resident of The Troika for ten years, living twenty floors above what has become one of KL’s culinary highlights; my living room was directly above where Fritz is now. Over that decade, I became well-acquainted with the constellation of restaurants that make up Troika Sky Dining – Fuego, Mr. Chew’s Chino Latino Bar, Coppersmith, Strato, and, of course, Fritz, which last year, after a fabulous renovation, was promoted into the larger space that used to belong another of their restaurants, Cantaloupe. I’ve frequented them all, developing a fondness not just for the food but also for the proprietors, Eddie Chew and Chris Bauer. These two are more than just restaurateurs; Eddie is a gifted classical pianist, and Chris is a talented chef with a surprisingly operatic voice (a discovery initially made thanks to shared gym facilities!). They often host classical music events, sometimes with Chris singing and Eddie accompanying him on piano.  Fritz has also hosted wine-tasting events by representatives from vineyards worldwide, creating a vibrant cultural hub that is more than a simple restaurant space. So, when Monica asked me to cover Fritz’s monthly Sunday lunch, my response was an enthusiastic “Absolutely!”  After all, I consider it one of the best brunches in the city and already made a reservation to take visiting friends for that very Sunday. Therefore, this isn’t just a review; I confess that it’s a declaration of a long-standing gastronomic love affair with a destination that still feels like home.

The Magnificent Walkway to Enter Fritz for Sunday Lunch
The Magnificent Walkway to Fritz’ Sunday Lunch
Fritz Sunday Lunch
Fritz – The Magnificent Walkway to Enter Fritz for Sunday Lunch

Troika Sky Dining

Although I moved from The Troika building almost two years ago, its culinary draw remains strong. I find myself returning to Troika Sky Dining several times a month, especially for Fritz’s monthly Sunday lunch and the ever-popular Fuego and Troika Sky Dining’s other consistently impressive offerings. Beyond the always excellent food, the exceptional service keeps me and countless others coming back. There is ample (paid) parking beneath the building, including valet parking, or the Ampang Park LRT and KLCC MRT stations are a few hundred metres away. 

Fritz Sunday Lunch
Cosy Dining Nook for Fritz’ Sunday Lunch

Fritz KL

From the moment you arrive, you’re greeted with genuine warmth by the friendly reception staff (who even follow my rescue cats on Instagram!).  They guide you through the soaring double-height spaces and sky bridges connecting the three towers, making you feel instantly welcome.  Many staff members have been with Troika Sky Dining for over a decade, which gives an insight into the positive work environment fostered by Eddie and Chris. This low turnover translates to exceptional service, with familiar faces remembering your preferences and offering a personalised experience.

I vividly recall the staff’s enthusiasm when Fritz reopened after its extensive renovation last October. While dining at Fuego with friends one evening, the staff insisted we visit the newly revamped Fritz to admire the transformation. And what a transformation it was! The striking wooden parquet floor immediately caught my eye. Chris shared the story behind the flooring, painstakingly laid by hand by a skilled elderly Chinese craftsman, highlighting the meticulous attention to detail. I remember that, at the time, the staff’s genuine pride in their revamped space was palpable and infectious. 

The renovation introduced several stunning design elements. I was drawn to the elegant “yin/yang” style curved sofas in soft pale blue plush velvet, creating intimate booth-style seating areas within the expansive space. Various seating options cater to different group sizes, from intimate tables for two to large circular tables perfect for families or groups. For those wanting to soak in the city views, there’s even balcony seating with fans to ensure comfort.

A highlight of the renovation is the breathtaking private dining room, featuring a magnificent marble table surrounded by ten chairs. Perfect for family events, celebrations, and corporate dinners. A chandelier crafted from recycled metal by local artist Tan Wei Ming casts a warm glow in the evenings, while a striking abstract painting by Jonathan Waltman adds a contemporary touch. The city’s longest curtains provide a welcome respite from the midday sun. Adorned with an geometric pattern in earthy tones, these dramatic drapes brought to mind the Von Trapp family and their resourceful repurposing of curtains in “The Sound of Music.” There’s enough fabric in these curtains to make outfits for every lunch guest and the entire staff! 

An impressive solid pewter bar stretches along one wall of the vast dining room. It has a heft and solidity that helps anchor the room and is one of the significant changes that came with the renovations a year ago. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a cocktail before lunch or dinner. It’s where we enjoyed a glass of beautifully chilled Lombardi Axiome Brut Champagne with Eddie Chew, one of the proprietors of Troika Sky Dining. 

This well-balanced Champagne had refreshing acidity, toasty notes, and refined spices. Made with 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from Côte des Bars, “Axiome” is crafted exclusively from first-press juices aged 24 months. There were hints of zesty apple, baking spice, and nutty brioche flavours in this complex and satisfying Champagne. It is available as a free-flow pairing for RM 450 and was excellent with the seafood that was to come. 

Fritz Sunday Lunch Free-flow Lombardi Axiome Brut Champagne
Free-flow Lombardi Axiome Brut Champagne at the Fritz Sunday Lunch
Fritz Sunday Lunch Private Dining Room
Private Dining Room

Fritz Sunday Lunch Menu

Pretzels

I love anticipating the monthly Sunday lunch menu (RM 220). Chef Chris Bauer always creates something surprising and delightful, and I love that it differs monthly. He’d mentioned earlier that he was a bit nervous about the Bavarian Pretzel (served alongside Rosemary Focaccia Rolls) because he hadn’t made them in a while, and the sticky dough can be tricky to handle. But honestly, the pretzels were perfect – crispy with flaky sea salt, a soft interior, and served with caraway seed butter and a delicious sun-dried tomato olive oil.

Bavarian Pretzels & Rosemary Focaccia Rolls
Bavarian Pretzels & Rosemary Focaccia Rolls

Fritz Seafood Platter

Although the menu changes each month, one element always remains: the famous Fritz Seafood Platter, which drew gasps of appreciation as it was set down at our table, and this month featured Fine de Claire Oysters from France, nestling in a bed of crushed ice and accompanied by chunky lemon wedges. The oysters had a refined taste with a balanced salty and nutty flavour. There was also a fun little prawn cocktail, shelled succulent, juicy prawns, their tails emerging from a creamy Marie Rose sauce. I could have eaten several bowls of these myself, as it’s been a favourite of mine since it was initially in vogue in the 1970s. Another favourite was the delicate slices of translucent hamachi yellowtail sashimi, also known as Japanese amberjack. Completing the quartet of seafood were the black mussels. I thought the plump orange-fleshed mussels were deliciously creamy and with only a hint of the ocean they had left behind.

Fritz Seafood Platter
Fritz Seafood Platter – A Staple for Fritz for Sunday Lunch

A Little Soup

A Little Soup followed quickly, continuing the seafood theme featuring a refined clam chowder. Poured into our bowls tableside around crisp toast topped with crème fraîche, sauteed porcini mushrooms, and a smoked clam. It was finished with a delicate decorative yellow pansy. This smooth, elegant soup was subtly flavoured, unlike the heartier chowders of the American Northwest.

A Little Soup
A Little Soup

As delicious as the Champagne was, we opted for a bottle of Roches Neuves “Insolite” 2021 (RM 348 for a bottle RM 58 for a glass) to accompany the rest of our lunch. Produced in the Loire Valley, it’s made with Chenin Blanc grapes, using biodynamic principles. It was super crisp and fresh, with zesty citrus flavours and a hint of herbs. It had an interesting stony quality, too, which added another layer of flavour and paired very well with our seafood dishes.

Roches Neuves "Insolite" 2021, Chenin Blanc
Roches Neuves “Insolite” 2021, Chenin Blanc

A Preamble

The next course, intriguingly titled A Preamble, presented three delightful elements: pan-seared foie gras, endive cups filled with creamy celeriac remoulade, and roasted apple. Even Monica, who doesn’t usually order foie gras, admitted it was excellent. The bitterness of the endive and tartness of the apple perfectly balanced the liver’s richness. And the celeriac remoulade! Wow! I adore this dish, a staple in France, but surprisingly, this was my first time encountering it in Malaysia. Though the foie gras was delicious, I could have used a larger serving of that excellent remoulade! 

A Preamble - Foie Gras
A Preamble – Foie Gras

Then came the Salmon Tartare accompanied by chopped hard-boiled egg, capers, crème fraîche, and blinis – those perfect little potato pancakes. It was fun to assemble each bite with the toppings, creating a delightful little morsel. While usually a cocktail party canapé staple, this portion of tartare was perhaps overly generous for the number of blinis provided. No matter how high I piled on the salmon, I still had plenty left over.

Salmon Tartare
Salmon Tartare – Fritz for Sunday Lunch

The Preamble concluded with delicately Poached Leeks in a pool of white balsamic vinaigrette, topped with creamy mozzarella and crunchy hazelnuts. I love leeks – they’re a favourite ingredient in my own kitchen. Sadly, I think they’re underutilised in Malaysian restaurants, which is a shame, as the Cameron Highlands produce wonderful varieties. These leeks were perfectly soft, and the tangy vinaigrette was a lovely counterpoint to the creamy mozzarella, with the hazelnuts adding a welcome crunch.

Fritz Sunday Lunch Poached Leeks
Poached Leeks

Confit Lamb Shoulder & Seabass Wellington

Although we already felt like we’d eaten enough for two entire meals, the main course finally arrived! Diners had a choice between two enticing options: Confit Lamb Shoulder with Burnt Cauliflower and Mint Chimichurri sauce or Seabass Wellington accompanied by a chive butter sauce. The side dishes for both main courses were fluffy white rice and a Fennel and Orange salad. The thinly sliced fennel had a delicate anise flavour and a satisfying crunch, contrasting beautifully with the sweet, juicy segments of orange. In the interest of thorough research for The Yum List, we decided to order both main courses and share them family-style.

The lamb was carved at the table, and we immediately saw it falling off the bone. The fat was perfectly rendered, creating glossy pools beneath the meat. The long, slow cooking process had worked its magic, giving the lamb an incredibly luxurious, silky mouthfeel. It intensified the lamb’s natural flavours, creating a deep, savoury taste. The mint chimichurri sauce provided a welcome contrast, cutting through some of the richness. I especially enjoyed the burnt cauliflower served on top of a smooth cauliflower puree. It reminded me of the delicious cauliflower steak served at the sister restaurant, Fuego – a dish I always recommend to vegetarian friends.

Fritz Sunday Lunch Confit Lamb Shoulder
Confit Lamb Shoulder – Fritz for Sunday Lunch
Burnt Cauliflower
Burnt Cauliflower

While the lamb was delicious, the Seabass Wellington was a standout dish. The pastry was perfectly crisp and cooked through, avoiding any hint of a dreaded “soggy bottom” or undercooked dough. The fish within was meltingly soft and flaking, yet cooked to perfection.

This dish is undoubtedly one for skilled chefs, as there’s no way to know if the fish is cooked correctly or if the pastry needs more time until it’s cut open at the table. Fish cooking can be challenging, and this dish, while impressive when executed well, can be daunting to prepare. It’s a real indication of our chef’s talent, especially considering that it’s not a regular menu item at Fritz, so it has not been practised night after night for months.

Fritz Sunday Lunch Seabass Wellington
Seabass Wellington

I checked with my friends, who were seated at a nearby table. They shared a similar viewpoint. They enjoyed the lamb but ultimately declared the Seabass Wellington exceptional.

Cherry Ricotta Tart & Fritz Rum Baba

Despite feeling utterly spoiled by this point in the meal, we were presented with a delightful dilemma: Cherry Ricotta Tart or the Fritz Rum Baba? True to the Fritz experience, we didn’t have to choose. If you find yourself with room after this absolute feast of a lunch, the staff are happy to offer a taste of both. In the interest of comprehensive research, we naturally indulged.

The individual rum babas were light, fluffy, and studded with rum-soaked raisins. Doused in sugar syrup and a generous measure of Bacardi Carta Negra, they were finished with a cloud of whipped cream and a touch of orange zest. It was a scene-stealing dessert. While the Cherry Ricotta Tart was enjoyable with its fluffy sponge and cream layers, it was inevitably overshadowed by the magnificent Rum Baba.

Fritz Sunday Lunch - Cherry Ricotta Tart & Fritz Rum Baba
Fritz Sunday Lunch Dessert Trolley – Cherry Ricotta Tart & Fritz Rum Baba

Fritz Sunday Lunch Review

Sunday lunch at Fritz was a delightful reminder of why I am a repeat customer. The warm and familiar service, a hallmark of Troika Sky Dining, instantly made me feel welcome. The restaurant’s elegant ambience, enhanced by breathtaking city views, provided the perfect setting to enjoy Chef Chris Bauer’s innovative monthly menu. This month’s culinary journey included a stunning seafood platter, a delicate clam chowder, and a delicious “preamble” of foie gras, salmon tartare, and poached leeks.  The Seabass Wellington, with its perfectly cooked fish encased in a crisp pastry, was a standout dish that showcased the chef’s exceptional culinary skills.

Reasons to visit Fritz’s monthly Sunday Lunch: Exceptional food, impeccable service, stunning views and inviting atmosphere, Fritz remains a standout dining destination in KL. At RM 220 this monthly lunch also represents incredible value for food of this quality, in such an elegant setting.

Fritz’s Sunday multicourse lunch with a free-flow of Champagne Lombardi Axiome Brut is priced RM670++ per person, or just lunch at RM220++ per person.


book now

Fritz Sunday Lunch
Level 23A Tower B, The Troika, 19, Persiaran KLCC
50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
fritzdining.com
+60 3 2162 0886
+60 11-2389 7080
[email protected]

Fritz Opening Hours
Daily: 5 pm-12 am 
Sunday Lunch: Last Sunday of every month, 12 pm – 3 pm * Specials dates for Christmas and New Year

Fritz Sunday Lunch Menu & Prices
Fritz Sunday Lunch Menu & Prices – November 2024 (the menu changes each month with only the seafood platter remaining the same)

Find more French restaurants in KL here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene with The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.

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