A Riverbank in Another Light – Colby Quirk’s Final Vintages & Winter Menu at RiverBank Estate Swan Valley Winery & Restaurant
Monica Tindall
We returned to RiverBank Estate to dine with Colby Quirk and write about the winter menu, but instead were met with a deep grief that reverberated throughout the estate. The beloved head winemaker and general manager, Colby Quirk, had passed away suddenly at the age of 40, leaving behind a wife, two children, and a heartbroken team.
We met Colby in March this year and were immediately struck by his warmth, generosity, and depth of knowledge. I nerded out meeting the state’s bubbly expert — Colby made prosecco, sparkling, Champagne, and even pét nat. I had so many questions, and he patiently answered every one. Also, growing up in rural Australia, we connected on many levels (particularly the love of going yabbying), but primarily over a shared love of wine and food.
He passionately introduced RiverBank Estate’s latest vintages and summer menu. He featured in one of our weekly “someone in the industry” spotlight interviews, and we had been communicating ever since. Colby generously shared his top recommendations for food and wine in Pemberton and the Great Southern, which made our most recent journey through the region all the more meaningful. This meal was to be our final one on this WA trip — shared with Colby — before flying back to Kuala Lumpur.
I walked jovially into reception and asked for Colby, eager to reconnect and learn more from the wine guru. Instead, I was met by Eric Lembo, one of the family owners of the estate, and the devastating news of Colby’s passing. After taking some time to process, we chose to stay, dine, and honour Colby with this final review — an appreciation of his work, his wines, and his impact.
So Colby, this one’s for you. We taste your artistry in every lingering sip.
Swan Valley Winery Restaurant – A Riverbank in Another Light
The vines are the same, but the canvas has shifted. Where sunlight once bounced off full glasses and warmed alfresco tables, a softer light now spills over the landscape. Winter and sorrow bring a new texture to RiverBank Estate — cooler air, richer tones, a menu that favours the heartier end of the season’s produce, and a quiet celebration and mourning of some of Colby’s finest vintages.
Returning with fond memories of a sun-drenched afternoon, I find the estate wrapped in a more introspective mood. The view still soothes, but the palate is invited on a different kind of journey — one that speaks in slower rhythms, deeper flavours and heartfelt recollections.
RiverBank’s seasonal offering draws on Western Australian ingredients, expert pairings, and the estate’s own sustainably produced wines. The result is a thoughtful and rewarding winter menu that’s equal parts comfort and finesse. The soundtrack — whether curated or coincidental — feels deeply in tune with the mood: soulful notes from Billie Eilish, Adele, and William Bell add an emotional undercurrent.
Winter Menu Small Plates
We’d pre-arranged a modest menu, knowing full well that after three weeks of gourmet writing in the Great Southern, our appetites might be nearing their limit. However, upon arrival, Eric insists on more. He is of Sicilian heritage, after all, and it’s hard to refuse his bidding.
We begin with the Gruyère Cheese & Spinach Soufflé (A$24), naturally partnered with Rustic Toasted Vienna Bread (A$12). The soufflé is rich, creamy, and finished with a mildly sharp Parmesan that reins in the indulgence. The house-baked bread is drizzled with butter, sprinkled with herbs, and sports an eye-catching golden crust. Green pickles, confit garlic, and a swirl of butter sit on the side, ready for playful combos. Eric was right — this is a must on the RiverBank menu, especially if cheesy and carby are two words that feature frequently in your foodie dreams.
Freshly shucked Coffin Bay Oysters from South Australia can be eaten naked (A$5.50 each), with lemon, a Bloody Mary sauce (A$6 each), or with a blue cheese torched mousse (A$6 each). We opt for the latter and find them incredibly creamy, a little briny, and enhanced by the tang of the cheese.
The 2023 Rebellious Verdelho (A$16) is ideal for counterbalancing the buttery richness of our starters. Its tropical aromas — pineapple, mango, nectarine — combined with fresh acidity and gentle fruit undertones, lift the palate and keep us returning for more.
A clever newcomer on the winter menu is the Crispy Iceberg Salad (A$19). It’s a play on texture — fresh lettuce remains delightfully crisp, punctuated by sweet pops of bell pepper drops, the richness of avocado cream, and a seedy, garlicky crumb that adds both warmth and crunch. Pickled eschalots lift the dish with acidity, while a garlic chive dressing binds it all together. It’s a surprising little number that manages to be both refreshing and satisfying.
The Cacciatore Crocodile Sausage (A$26) steps into more assertive territory. House-made and seasoned with fennel and lemon myrtle, the sausage has a flavourful, meaty bite and savoury depth, balanced by caramelised onion and roasted peppers. A black olive crumb has a briny contrast, while garlic and olive oil root the dish in rustic Mediterranean tones. It’s a dish that walks a fine line between outback curiosity and Euro bistro charm.
The Rebellious 2021 Tempranillo (A$16) is the wine of choice here — its notes of black cherry, red currant, and a hint of cigar box wrap comfortably around the sausage’s bold profile without overpowering it.
Despite our claims of filling quickly, Eric insists we try the Veal and Pork Meatball (A$26). A large, meaty sphere surrounded by smoked lentil ragu and wild garlic is topped with grated cheese and herb oil. We slice it open, and seductive cheese lava oozes out. Hearty, warming and rich, it’s tailor-made for cooler months.
In-House Dry-Aged Poultry & Meat
A highlight of the winter menu, the WA Wagin Duck (A$48) — dry-aged in-house — is deeply satisfying. Paired with Donnybrook compressed apple, grilled fennel, witloof, radish and walnuts, it’s a dish of layered contrasts: earthy and sweet, bitter and crisp. A sour cherry reduction runs through like a fine thread, tying it all together. The dish feels like winter on a plate: dark, nourishing, and quietly indulgent.
The Rebellious 2023 Old Vine Grenache (A$16) brings softness and complexity — red fruits, baking spice, and a juicy finish — its gentle tannins flattering the duck in a long, lingering embrace.
Swan Valley Winery Restaurant – Dessert
To finish, the Crème Caramel (A$18) proves that sometimes, classics deserve the spotlight. RiverBank’s version is smooth and silky, topped with candied hazelnuts for crunch, a generous dribble of sticky caramel sauce, and a chocolate crumb that brings a subtle bitter edge. A scoop of vanilla ice cream ties it all together, while seasonal berries lend tartness and colour.
Paired with the Eric Anthony Liqueur Shiraz NV (A$12), dessert becomes a moment of hedonistic harmony. Reminiscent of Black Forest cake — dark berries, cocoa, and a touch of spirit — it’s rich but not heavy, and a fitting close to the meal.
Raising a Glass to Colby Quirk
As we farewell RiverBank Estate, we raise a glass to Colby Quirk — his persistence, patience, generosity, and the wines that will continue to mark celebrations, comfort rainy evenings, and create memories long after his passing.
Reasons to visit RiverBank Estate Swan Valley Winery & Restaurant: Seasonal menus that spotlight local WA produce; imaginative dishes with thoughtful wine pairings; live seafood tanks for a true paddock-and-tank-to-plate experience; estate wines grown sustainably with character and finesse; sweeping vineyard views that take on new mood in every season; a kitchen that’s unafraid to explore flavour while still honouring comfort and familiarity; Cat’s amazing service – the only server on duty during our visit, and she had the whole restaurant charmed, satisfied, and superbly looked after; grab a case or two of Colby’s wine – sadly the last of his magic.
RiverBank Estate – Winery Restaurant in the Swan Valley
126 Hamersley Rd, Caversham
6055 Western Australia
Link to RiverBank Estate on Google Maps
www.riverbankestate.com.au
+61 (08) 9377 1805
@riverbankestate
RiverBank Estate Winery Restaurant Hours
Monday & Tuesday: Closed
Wednesday to Sunday: 10 am – 4 pm
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