Middle Eastern comfort collides with Japanese finesse in TTDI’s latest dining mash-up, Zaataru – a loud, lively spot where bread is puffed, hummus is reinvented, and eating with your hands is highly encouraged.
Words: Karen Santosuosso
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Levantine and Japanese fusion? This was a visit I couldn’t pass up. Zaataru, one of the newest eateries amongst the many other creative culinary pursuits in TTDI, blends Middle Eastern comfort and spice with some Japanese essentials.
Zaataru TTDI
Helmed by Chef Joel Kirk, a French-trained chef, Zaataru is a collaboration that also draws in talents from Leen’s Chef Ameer Alzalek and Chateau Dionne’s Chef Andy Choy. Chef Joel shares their vision of sticking to Middle Eastern roots, but with a fun twist. Things are not as ‘refined’ as the collaborators’ other restaurants – music plays loudly in the background, and hand-to-mouth eating is encouraged here.
Zaataru Drinks Menu
We begin with a Pomegranate Mint Fizz (RM 15), a refreshing, lightly tart opener with loads of fresh pomegranate seeds and mint leaves. The Sage Iced Lemon Tea (RM 15) is herbaceous and not too sweet. Generous carafes of Genmaicha (RM 8) are also available for any fans of the toasty, popped brown rice green tea, too. Our server, Nazir, kindly makes sure we’re topped up throughout the meal.
Zaataru Food Menu
Small Plates Made for Sharing
We start strong with the Bonito Hummus (RM 30). Creamy roasted chickpea hummus is swirled with Japanese natto – but don’t let those slimy soy beans scare you off. The natto is delicately balanced with mustard and soy, offering umami depth without being overpowering. Served with their housemade bread, this dish is a thoughtful nod to the daily staples of both Arab and Japanese tables.
Zaataru’s puffed Levantine bread comes piping hot out of their oven and is hard to resist as a dunking vessel for the hummus, or just enjoyed on its own. Our reelographer Ivan uses it to slop up every drop of the olive oil from the Grilled Green Olives (RM 22). The olives are pickled and charred with fresh wasabi stems, making for a nice smoky and briny flavour.
The Fattoush Salad (RM 32) is a crisp, tangy medley of leafy greens, olives, purple onion, pomegranate dressing, and crunchy pita crisps – bright with acid and citrus – a recurring theme across Zaataru’s menu.
If there’s one bite that epitomises Zaataru’s playful fusion of cuisines, it’s the Edamame Falafel (RM 18). Served alongside a nori tsukudani dip, a punchy mixture of soy sauce, mirin, seaweed, and Kewpie sesame dressing, it’s a delightful reimagination of a classic falafel with tzatziki. Expect pops of edamame and bright coriander throughout.
One standout plate of the afternoon is the Grilled Squid (RM 52), which Chef Joel shares is his personal favourite. Inspired by a friend’s travels through Greece, the tender squid sits atop a bed of chickpeas zippy with fresh lemon zest, and the entire plate feels like a summer holiday on the Mediterranean coast.
Hearty Meat Dishes
The Levantines know how to do meat right with their spit-roasting techniques and delicious spices, so the Smash Lamb Hawawshi (RM 52) does not disappoint. It’s a classic Egyptian street food, almost like a Middle Eastern quesadilla, elevated at Zaataru with brown butter and encased in their housemade bread.
We also have the Chicken Shawarma (RM 35) – strips of the juicy, spiced chicken are presented in a wrap that is perfect for picking up with one’s hands. Both meat dishes come with fresh salad, fries, pickles, and such. They would be delicious meals to have on their own if you’re a party of one.
Lunch Set Menus TTDI
Zaataru has also launched a new lunch menu with each set coming with housemade pickles, a side dish, and the dessert of the day. We opt for the Akkawi Cheese Manakish (RM 30). Think gooey, melty, chewy satisfaction with the sweet & salty undertones of Akkawi cheese and loads of za’atar spice. This would be my go-to for lunch if I lived nearby — it’s a great deal with all the accompaniments. I particularly enjoy the yuzu beetroot pickles dolloped on top of the cheesy bread. The side cucumbers add freshness and crunch, too.
Desserts
We end on a sweet note with a Ginger Date Pudding (RM 28) and Baklava Sundae (RM 32). The date pudding is gooey and well-spiced with a deliciously salty, sweet miso caramel and smoked cream on top. It feels almost like Christmas morning with each bite. The sundae comes served in an elegant crystal glass adorned with festive flowers. It’s creamy, nutty, and crunchy all at the same time. If you can’t choose which dessert to go for, I highly suggest going for both.
Reasons to visit Zaataru: fun & unique fusion of an unlikely pairing of cuisines; trying their housemade Levantine puffed bread is a must, particularly when dunked in the smoked green olives and their oil; great deal on delicious lunch sets like the Akkawi Cheese Manakish; BYO w/ no corkage fee is a bonus!
Zaataru TTDI
21-1, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Zaataru on Google Maps
@zaataru_ya
*Vegetarian options
**Street parking
***No pork, no alcohol
****Free corkage
Zaataru Operating Hours
Daily: 12-3 pm & 6-10 pm
Find more of our favourite restaurants in TTDI here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene with The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.
