Troika Sky Dining Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar’s New Home

Troika Sky Dining Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar’s New Home

Eat Chino, Live Latino

Words: Monica Tindall   Photos: Rich Callahan

There’s no need to be disappointed that Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar has closed in the WOLO Hotel as they are now even more conveniently located at Troika Sky Dining in KLCC. Positioned alongside some of KL’s hottest dining options, such as Fuego, Cantaloupe, Brasserie Fritz and Strato, the contemporary Asian bar with Hispanic influence is undoubtedly in excellent company.

Taking the space of Coppersmith, I sit with owners Eddie Chew and Christian Bauer to get insight into Troika Sky Dining, Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar’s new home and menu. Just like Eddie and Chris, the concept is vibrant and full of charm. Reflecting worldly experience, recipes have a foundation in the East with a spirited Latino vim. Again, resembling the men behind the concept, each dish is hand-crafted harnessing the vivacity of cross-cultural enlightenment and confidently styled with panache.

Cocktails

We’re happy to see that not only the striking painting from behind the bar at Mr Chew’s Chino Latino has moved to Troika Sky Dining, but also along with it came bartender Sam.

Sam guides us through Troika Sky Dining’s Mr Chew’s Chino Latino cocktail menu. It’s conveniently divided into sections by the style of drink: All-day, Everyday; Strong & Harmonious; and New & Exciting.

From the lighter end, Mr Chew’s ‘Take-Away G&T (RM 42) features Sorgin French gin, pink peppercorns and guava. It’s topped up with Malafemmena tonic, which is made in Italy and free of artificial colouring and preservatives. Sorgin, the Basque word for sorcerer gives the gin the tagline, “the bewitching gin.” We soon become enchanted with the enticing thread of lemon, lime, grapefruit, violet, broom and blackcurrant buds; an excellent pick for gin lovers.

A little more intense, Pablo’s Dynasty (RM 46) is from the spirit-forward collation. It brings out our worst Spanish accents as we impersonate los capos of the trashiest Netflix cartel dramas. Tequila (of course), gin, sweet vermouth, Luxardo maraschino and hellfire bitters come together in a Champagne coupe. A cheeky line of icing sugar is laid across a pineapple leaf resembling a strip of what Pablo is best known for.

Lastly, welcoming experimental combinations I plump for Spring Morning in la Casa (RM 50). Plum blossoms, blooming a month earlier than their cherry cousins, are the first sign of approaching spring in Japan so it’s only fitting that umeshu shochu (plum liquor) be the base. Sparkling wine lightens the spirit and golden raspberry and chilli shrub (fruit, sugar, vinegar) make a delicious, umami-swayed beverage.

Starters

Both newcomers and returning diners alike should be sure to order the signature, Nori Taco (RM 28). Not only is it possibly the most Instagrammed dish on the menu but it’s just really well put together. Nori wrappers have been bent to form the perfect taco shell casing and tempura-fried to crispy goodness. Filled with sticky sushi rice, salmon belly, salmon roe and tobiko mayo, they are elegant bites of satisfaction.

More easy bites to share come in the form of Soft Shell Crab Pancake Rolls (RM32, 2 pcs) and Crisp-fried Barramundi Noodle Rolls (RM26, 3 pcs). The former has a fat wadding of avocado, nori and light wasabi mayo wrapped together with the crab in a paper-thin egg crepe roll. The latter resemble Vietnamese spring rolls with their fresh rice paper cloak. Stuffed with their namesake, the chilli-lime-fish sauce is a perfect mate.

After the Nori Tacos, the Tiger Prawn Dumplings (RM28, 4 pcs) just might be my next favourite menu item at Mr Chew’s at Troika Sky Dining. Water chestnuts add a good crunch and the curry vinaigrette with Vietnamese mint add complexity to the parcels. Warm, comforting and moreish, every bite leads to the desire for another.

Main

Rich has nothing but words of praise to share about the Crispy Skin Confit Half Duck (RM90, 900g). The poultry is wonderfully moist within, kept well-enclosed by the crisp outer layer. And, the partners of pickled onion and Szechuan orange plum sauce turn a classic into something unforgettable.

In the next main, the companions to the Pan Seared Barramundi (RM75, 250g) sound just as enticing as the fish itself. Spicy tamarind chilli sauce, coconut cream, pineapple and avocado salsa certainly season the fillet with a taste of the tropics. It’s a generously fat piece with a crunchy golden crest – nicely done.

Sides

Heart of Cabbage (RM20) adds some veg to our meal. It’s combined with sweet ginger sauce and aromatic black bean crisps. It’s a little sweet and the bright greens are barely cooked giving them an attractive crispness.

I love the texture of pearl rice so the Fried Japanese Rice (RM20) is an instant hit. Cooked together with garlic, creamy avocado and coriander, this is much more than a simple side of grain. Chilli padi leaves a decent thread of spice and the green avo summit is delightful.

Dessert

Lastly, Mr Chew’s Dessert Box for Rich (I mean for Two) (RM45) consists of a tempting collection of banana burrito, raspberry chocolate mushroom, chocolate cigar and passion fruit mochi. Rich jokes that “for two” means that he gets to eat for us both. I unjokingly counter that that’s fine as I get to drink for two of us. Another cocktail, please…

Troika Sky Dining Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar’s New Home

Often change is challenging but for those who “grow” through it rather than “go” through it, the unexpected can be a blessing. In this case, we’ve been gifted a new, far more convenient home, for Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar at Troika Sky Dining.

Reasons to visit Troika Sky Dining Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar’s new home: convenient location next to some of KL’s hottest bar and restaurant concepts; must order the nori taco, tiger prawn dumplings, fried Japanese rice and go wild with the cocktail menu.

Troika Sky Dining Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar’s New Home
Level 23A Tower B
The Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC
50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+603 2162 0886
www.facebook.com/mrchewchinolatino

Mr Chew’s Chino Latino Bar at Troika Sky Dining Opening Hours
Daily
Bar from 5 pm
Food from 6 pm

 

Find more restaurants in Troika Sky Dining here and stay up-to-date with the latest gourmet and travel recommendations for Malaysia here and here.