From Phnom Penh to paradise — KoKo Steakhouse and Le Manolis Wine Cellar bring refined dining and cellar cred to JATI Koh Russey in Sihanoukville, proving that even remote island retreats are no longer immune to the demands of discerning palates.
Monica Tindall
Gone are the days when a palm-fringed setting was enough to distract from soggy toast and uninspired buffets. Today’s travellers want it all: isolation and innovation, barefoot luxury and a properly dry martini. Culinary standards are rising even in the most off-grid destinations — and JATI Koh Russey is meeting the moment with the arrival of KoKo Steakhouse and Le Manolis Wine Cellar.
Both are established names in Phnom Penh: KoKo, with its Japanese-accented steakhouse concept, and Le Manolis, a wine bar and cellar championing fine bottles with a Mediterranean soul. Now, they’ve packed their knives (and corkscrews) for the coast, setting up shop just steps from the sea. The idea? To replicate the capital’s culinary success — but with sand underfoot and sea breezes in the mix.
At JATI Koh Russey, the duo offers a polished escape for those who believe grilled Wagyu tastes better with an ocean view and that even in the jungle, your glass of Burgundy should be properly decanted. And while the setting may be castaway chic, the food and beverage experience is anything but an afterthought.
Le Manolis Wine Cellar Sihanoukville
With its cave-like cool and understated elegance, Le Manolis Wine Cellar is a spot for oenophiles seeking substance over spectacle. The collection is compact but considered — a strong showing of Old World labels, particularly from Bordeaux and northern Italy, with a few well-placed New World gems rounding out the selection. There’s no printed wine list here; instead, guests are invited inside the cellar and browse the bottles themselves — a tactile experience that lends a sense of occasion to each pour. By-the-glass options are limited to two approachable picks from Veneto’s Terre di Rai: a supple Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon that punches above its weight. We later pair the latter with our steak — a ruby-red pour with soft tannins, dark berry notes and a whisper of spice, grown on the mineral-rich plains of the Piave River.
KoKo Steakhouse Menu – JATI Koh Russey
Starters
Knowing full well we’re headed into carnivorous territory, we try for a semblance of balance by front-loading with vegetables. The Corn Ribs (US$6) arrive charred and curled, sweet kernels coated in a smoky tomato butter that’s rich enough to double as a sauce and a seasoning. A light snowfall of Parmesan adds umami without overpowering the dish — snackable, playful, and a clever nod to classic barbecue flavours. The Grilled Vegetables (US$10) hold their own with surprising flair: thick-cut spears of asparagus, juicy tomato halves, smoky eggplant, pumpkin, capsicum, and red onion arrive perfectly blistered, the heat teasing out their natural sugars. A swipe of tuna mayo lends a briny richness, while a house spice blend and a scattering of micro herbs bring brightness and bite.
Mains – Dry-Aged | Charcoal Grilled
As promised, the meaty mains are a sight to behold — generous slabs of richly marbled beef, expertly charred and confidently plated. While I typically lean toward grass-fed cuts for their leaner profile and terroir-driven character, the chef’s handling of these grain-fed steaks is undeniable. He’s drawn every ounce of flavour from the fat, coaxing out complexity through precise timing and mastery of the Maillard effect — that golden, flavour-packed crust that steak lovers chase.
The Australian Grain-fed Bone-in Prime Rib (600g, US$60) is a showstopper — blushing in the centre, smoky at the edges, with a vibrant salsa verde adding a punch of acidity. Tender spears of green asparagus and baby carrots bring freshness, while a pile of triple-cooked fries delivers the sort of crunch that makes you pause mid-sentence.
KoKo Steakhouse’s Ribeye (250g, US$38) is slightly more restrained in size but no less satisfying, bolstered by black garlic, a slick of smoked tomato butter, and golden roasted potatoes. It’s a deeply savoury dish — the butter amplifies the umami without overwhelming the meat’s natural character.
We nearly meet our match in portion size, but waste feels like sacrilege when the execution is this precise — so we persevere, happily.
Dessert
The meal ends on a quieter note with Crêpes Suzette (US$10) — thin pancakes folded in a light orange reduction, served with a scoop of salted caramel ice cream. Pleasant enough, though admittedly overshadowed by the boldness and precision of the courses that came before.
KoKo Steakhouse Sihanoukville Review
As island dining goes, KoKo Steakhouse and Le Manolis Wine Cellar offer a rare combination: polished technique, thoughtful sourcing, and a clear sense of place — without losing the relaxed charm expected of a tropical escape. It’s an ambitious culinary outpost that doesn’t overreach, letting the quality of the ingredients and the confidence of the kitchen speak for themselves. Whether you’re staying at JATI Koh Russey or visiting by boat, it’s worth making the journey for a steak-and-wine experience that holds its own against mainland favourites.
Reasons to visit KoKo Steakhouse – JATI Koh Russey, Sihanoukville: expertly prepared charcoal-grilled steaks; curated walk-in wine cellar with Old World leanings; tranquil beachside setting; smooth service in a refined yet relaxed space; welcome elevation of food and wine standards on a remote island.
KoKo Steakhouse – JATI Koh Russey
Koh Russey Island, Oung Village
180108 Ream, Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Link to JATI Koh Russey on Google Maps
jati-resort.com info@jati-resort.com
@jatikohrussey
KoKo Steakhouse – JATI Koh Russey Hours
Daily from 7 pm
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